Dean Lords

More Pointless Route Images

2011-07-30T22:46:00.003-06:00

We love our backyard! Heather Lords climbing above the South Fork of the Snake River

Fun, Fun FUN!

Charles Hill pulls down!

Kristin Hill taking charge

Crimpy, slightly overhung face/arete... superb!

The Pointless Crag - in the making

2011-07-29T22:32:00.007-06:00

Started development on a new sector in the South Fork Canyon. After a few drive-by recon trips, Riley Rollins and I packed the drill and some hardware to the base of the crag. A once over led to a twice over, which led to me finally saying... "What's the point?" as i wallowed in doubt at the stone overhead.

Adventure and determination prevailed and the first of many routes was born; honored with the name... "What's the Point", which is actually a pretty damn good route... and still a project.

In the days following new routes have emerged. Here's a sneak peak showing three of the routes.

Kristin Hill racing the sun or chasing the shade; I'm not sure which...

Heather Lords making the first ascent of her and Kristin's new route

Jaren Watson samples What's the Point in fading light

As soon as the routes get a thorough cleaning, I'll make the crag info available so our community can check the place out.

Gone Skiing

2010-12-28T20:24:00.001-07:00

Gone skiing for the winter. Please follow our adventures at East Idaho Off-Piste
http://nopiste.blogspot.com

Solitude in the Yellowstone Backcountry

2010-09-17T15:14:00.003-06:00

text coming soon...

Daisy Chains for general purpose rock climbing

2010-09-07T16:27:00.003-06:00

I have noticed some of you guys and gals using daisy chains for general purpose rock climbing. I am strongly against it. PLEASE READ THIS:

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/all/qc-lab-daisy-chain-dangers-en-glbl-en-us

Thank you...

rumors, the truth, and getting "Squatched" in Riggins Idaho

2010-08-29T11:43:00.007-06:00

..."I don't even know what that means."

There are a few great urban legends associated with the rock climbing in Riggins, Idaho. A handful of colorful stories from the early development years of the Amphitheatre along with the local Riggins knowledge of Sasquatch sightings are always great late night campfire stories in the dense pines at the Mile 9 campsite. Without rumors, the truth about Riggins would be meaningless.

Heather and I first visited Riggins during the summer of 2006. Despite only seeing four other climbers to inspire us during our 14+ day stay, the "cave funk" was no match for our desire to redpoint some of the routes in the Amphitheatre. What is the cave funk you may ask? Well, it is best described as that lasting effect of failure that lingers in the cave from repeatedly falling off of your project and it feeling just as hard on the 5th go as it did on the 1st attempt. Beware, the rumors of the cave funk are true...

..."Ever been to Riggins? That place sucks... it's totally chipped."

Again, without rumors, the truth about Riggins would be meaningless! Those of you who know me well, understand that i view ethics and religion as one in the same. Simply defined, both are a belief in a set of ideals to help govern our actions and both are a personal choice. The religion i subscribe to suggests that i simply love despite differences of opinion. How does this relate to Riggins? Simple. I LOVE climbing! Natural, chipped, traditional, bouldering, sport climbing...

The truth about Riggins is in fact the place has manufactured routes, however, there are a lot of routes that are all natural, well, all natural despite the manufactured protection! It is easy for me to see that Riggins isn't a place for everyone but it is a place i would suggest you experience at least once!

The non-manufactured hard route So Thin, So Fat 5.13+ on The Head of Sasquatch Wall at the Projects Sector - Riggins, Idaho

Heather and I drove from Seattle to Riggins last week to meet up with some of our friends from East Idaho. A few years ago, Tyler and Joe came up to Riggins for a few days to meet up with us and to decide for themselves about the chipped nature of the place. Despite fighting hard, the Amphitheatre won. They both had so much fun that they decided to go back! Joining Joe and Tyler this go around were several other close friends which made for a super fun four days of climbing hard in Riggins!

On average the temperatures can be about 25 degrees difference from the actual town of Riggins to the limestone climbing zone high in the Seven Devils Mountains. This particular trip we experienced a 40 degree temperature swing which made climbing on the small holds at the Projects Sector really good. The daytime highs were barely reaching into the mid 40's!!

We spent our time between the Amphitheatre and the Projects during the day, and huddling around the fire at night joking about one of us getting "Squatched" from our tents whiled we slept. The first-timers to Riggins fell head over heels for the climbing and the talk of returning for more started on the first night.

Nat Meacham is too healthy for this tub of Lard 5.10+

Soaking up the northern Idaho beauty on Soul Harvester 5.13b

Riley Everett Rollins sprinting his way up Chicken Dinner 5.13-

Warming up on the all natural Grey Matter 5.11+ at the Wuh Wall

Riley Everett Rollins using his brain power on Grey Matter 5.11+

On the fat part of So Thin, So Fat 5.13+

Thin is in... exiting the crux of So Thin, So Fat 5.13+

SASQUATCH.....!!! Oh, wait, it's just Nat coming back from his morning treasure hunt

My work here is done.

Several of us came very close to redpointing our projects and likely having time for just one more attempt, we could have all walked away with redpointed projects. Hopefully it won't be another two years before Heather and I return to Riggins. There is so much more for us to do there and just maybe we'll see some new faces up there as well?!?!

The Path 5.14 R

2010-08-20T18:40:00.002-06:00

A few days ago my good friend Pete Kamitses redpointed The Path at Lake Louise in Alberta Canada. Here is a video of Matt on the route.

Check out some photos and words from Pete at:

http://mammutathleteteam.blogspot.com/2010/08/home-stretch.html

The Pines at Palisades Creek

2010-08-14T23:49:00.007-06:00

Today marked one full week since Heather, Jaren Watson, and I started equipping routes at a new sector in Palisades Creek. I called a bunch of friends and invited them to check out the new projecting crag today. Matt T was in Boise for the Social Distortion concert and Tom S was at the City of Rocks. Despite the absence of these two hard men, we still ended up with eleven strong Upper Valley climbers! Even with all of the screaming and fighting attempts from a few of the strongest, only the warm-up route was flashed and/or redpointed!

Dubbed "The Pines" simply by default due to the massive pine trees concealing the entrance, this cave will be a great addition to the Palisades Creek Zone. Don't expect a cragging session unless you are climbing 5.13! The Pines is one beastly crag.

I thought it would be fun to do a short photo essay of the climbs.

Joe Crane, Chad Sr., and Heather walking the lush Palisades Creek Trail

Chad Alldredge on a causal walk up King of the Road 5.9

Boy Wonder, Sam Perkins, moving into the second of three cruxes on Toys in the Attic 5.12c

That's me gettin' on the Bandwagon (project)

a bit of wizardry on the Bandwagon

Heather starting into the opening crux on Ages of You (5.13a)

Heather mid route on Ages of You

Chad Alldredge crimping his way upward on the headwall of Ages of You

Yes, those are real.. and in East Idaho!

The Pines is located about 200 yards before reaching the Weeping Cave. Just after the dry creek channel with the rock retaining wall held together with chicken wire, when the trail enters the trees, you can follow a faint path up the hillside to the mouth of the cave.

There is still some work to be done on a few of the routes. More cleaning and relocating a few of the bolts. I am very appreciative of our local climbing scene and their willingness to come out and try these projects and to help me find the best engineering to accommodate most everyone who will visit this place. A few important things you should know about this cave:
1. the rock is not that great
2. the routes were engineered with a stick clip in mind... don't be a hero, it's just sport climbing, the rock is not great, and it's a long walk back to the car with a broken ankle or leg.
3. TRY HARD!

Route listing left to right:
King of the Road 5.9 - starts by the dead tree left of the cave. 4 bolts to lower off anchors.
Ages of You (5.13a)*** - starts on the left edge of the cave. 6 bolts to lower off anchors. Bouldery and powerful start to a good rest followed by an even harder bouldery lip crux and headwall.
Toys in the Attic 5.12c***- starts on the right side of the cave. 8 bolts to lower off anchors. Hard start followed by a juggy left traverse. Second crux comes at the bulge. Third crux is getting to the lip. Mental crux going to the anchors.
Bandwagon (5.13 closed project) same start as Toys but go strait up. Hard 4th clip. brilliant headwall. 5 bolts

Video of Matt T. sending Pure Rock Fury at the Fins!!

2010-08-12T10:10:00.002-06:00

I'm pretty sure that is the same campus attack and mono moves Matt did on Pure Rock Fury! If only the Fins had angle!

Outdoor Retailer Recovery and the birth of Secret Crag X...yz Pdq

2010-08-09T22:26:00.006-06:00

The Outdoor Retailer show is always a numbing experience for me. Busy is an understatement. I even find it difficult to walk the 100 yards from the Mammut booth to the bathroom without getting stopped by someone wanting to talk. Not that i mind, i don't at all actually, but the show does take its toll on me.

As with years past i always escape for a few days right after the show to recover a little peace of mind. Usually i lay in a fetal position and drool uncontrollably but this time i found the mindless work of breaking choss from potential routes quite relaxing! Heather and I raced home from Utah late Friday night, slept, then headed into Palisades Creek early Saturday morning with a drill and bag full of bolts and hangers.

As the morning rolled on my mind systematically dumped all of the dribble i collected from various meetings with people looking for sponsorship; providing humorous fodder for route names. Things like: I'm Sponsored by Prana, Just Like Chris Sharma; I Did All The Moves... Kinda; and, Don't Even Bother, It's Too Hard For You.

I should write up a blog post sometime about things you SHOULD NOT say while being interviewed by a potential sponsor! Luckily for me, all of the guys and gals on the Mammut Athlete Team are humble, respectful, and motivated to be positive ambassadors in the growth of climbing and skiing!

Back to climbing...

Okay, so the crag isn't named the Secret Crag X...yz Pdq, which was inspired by that systematic dump of dribble i collected at the show. The truth is i do not have a name for it yet, or any of the routes. As soon as i get things cleaned up and the cave is empty of fixed ropes, half bolted routes, and wet epoxy, i'll get the info out to everyone. In the meantime here are a few photos to get you psyched on projecting routes at the new cave in Palisades Creek!

Heather and Riley looking intimidated as they get ready to sample one of the projects

Heather in the business of the first crux

Riley pulling hard

Heather mid route

Hey Nathan... I think these bones are dead??
A photo of our little cave sentinel

The routes are not as long as the one's in Weeping Cave; however, they are powerful, unrelenting, and STEEP! Psyched to get some folks out there once the lines are fully equipped and the epoxy on some key holds is dry. This new sector will be a great addition to the Palisades Creek Zone!

from a friend

2010-07-31T16:43:00.002-06:00

I got a great email from a good friend today. Attached was a short story he wrote for a college English class about a climbing trip to Riggins, Idaho. I thought it would be fun to post on here!

Thanks Jr.! It's a great story!!

This is my favorite photo of Chad "Jr" at the Riggins City Park during the trip he wrote about. We happened to be at the park during some little kids birthday party. The kids were convinced we were practicing for the Circus and wanted to try it too!

Dean

Climbing for me has evolved into much more than a preferred pass time. It has become a lifestyle, a source of memorable times, and great friends. I have a very close friend who is a professional climber. This relationship has changed my life in many ways. A few years ago I was blessed to be invited to go on a trip with him and his wife to the small town of Riggins Idaho. Riggins is located in central Idaho about 4 hours from Boise on highway 95. It is a tiny rafting town with a population of about 500 people. The town has a grocery store, a gas station, a library, and a café. Riggins is roughly 8 hours away from Rexburg and I had just week off work. I drove straight there after a rafting trip in Wyoming with my cousin. I left late and needed to stop in Idaho Falls to pick up groceries. I was tired and began to drift. Finally when I realized I was falling asleep with my eyes open, I decided it was about time to find a place to pull off the road. I stopped in at a hotel in Mountain Home and slept in late. With roughly 6 hours left to drive I set out on my way. The long lonely drive provided a lot of time for reflection. At this time in my life I had flunked out of college and was working at a tire store. I realized that I had been studying a subject that led to a career I wasn’t interested in. I began to think about what I value in life. On that trip I realized that a life chained to a desk year round would drive me insane. I began to ask myself what kind of careers I could pursue that would allow me a lot of free time. I remembering asking myself questions about what I wanted in a job and what careers matched those wants. My friends I was going to climbing with came to mind. ”Heather get’s to climb a lot in the summer,” I thought to myself. Heather is a 4th grade teacher. This was the first time I had thought of teaching as a career for myself. At the time I was physics major. I realized that the only reason physics was my major was because I loved math but didn’t think there were careers in it. I can’t believe how wrong I was. I arrived in Riggins around 4 and set up camp next to my friends on a sandbar. The beautiful thing about Riggins is that the climbing is high in the mountains where it cools down in the morning and provides perfect temperatures for climbing, but as the day progresses, it heats up. It’s a great mix between climbing all morning and relaxing in the river low in the canyon in the day. It was unfortunate that I could only stay and climb for three days. The climbing in Riggins is a giant amphitheater. The routes are all extremely steep and come pre equipped with chains and carabiners to hold the rope, the ultimate in no commitment climbing. These gargantuan hundred foot cave routes are in your face right off the ground and don’t let up… ever. Being the routes are from the early nineties, the routes aren’t completely “natural” and many of the holds are drilled holes in the stone. Though manufactured routes have become kind of taboo in mainstream climbing, I am no purest and enjoy climbing in the massive limestone cave. Because the angle is so steep the routes make for safe, fun routes with big air. The nature of pre-equipped routes erases a lot of fears. Climbing there is care free. I never had to worry if the falls were safe or if I was going to lose equipment if I decided to bail. In three days I only completed one route. The easiest one there, but the whole experience gave me an appreciation and new knowledge of the sport of climbing much of this provided through Dean’s guidance. Climbing in Riggins helped shape my future in many ways, a pivotal time in my history, helping me decide my major and career path and giving me more experience and confidence in my climbing. Dean’s friendship and encouragement has become very important to me for this reason. In Riggins and ever since I have known him I have been impressed with how sharing he is with his knowledge and how friendly he is. South Eastern Idaho climbing would not be the same without Dean. His desire to give back to the climbing community in the surrounding area has led to the development of many of my favorite areas to climb.

Weeping Cave Update

2010-07-28T22:55:00.004-06:00

I was finally able to make the first ascent of Hoss, Moss & Chaos at the Weeping Cave this evening! Anticipating the forecasted afternoon thunder showers, Heather and I, along with some friends, thought Weeping Cave would be the place to be. My thought was the rains would bring cooler temps that make climbing the harder routes at the Weeping Cave a little bit easier. Plus it stays dry in the rain!

Well, i should have known better, the crag baked in the sun all afternoon long and the temps were super hot. However, as we walked out of the canyon at dusk, the rain did finally arrive, just 4 hours over due...

Despite the stifling heat on my 3rd attempt of the day, i held on long enough to swing through the crux and sprint to the anchors! Thanks for equipping the line Matt T. and thanks for letting me work it into submission!!

Heather Lords working on Hoss, Moss & Chaos 5.13-something-or-other at the Weeping Cave last year.

Full Circle

2010-07-26T22:07:00.008-06:00

The late 1980's and the first year or two of the '90's brought the first bolt equipped sport routes to Eastern Idaho. One of the early hot spots for development was the Grand Wall in Teton Canyon; just across the border into Wyoming. A young and talented Jackson Hole local, Brents Hawks, equipped an outrageously steep line on the northwest end of the Grand Wall which he called Arms Deal. Completely opposite of the trad-daddy mentality of many "Teton" climbers, Arms Deal was the steepest and most powerful line in the area; perplexing many of the area's best climbers with its difficult gymnastic movement.

In the early summer of 1993, at the age of 18, Arms Deal was my first official 5.13 redpoint. I knew Brents from visiting his climbing gym in Jackson Hole called The Teton Rock Gym. He was always excited to see me drive all the way from Idaho Falls to Jackson just to climb in his gym! I knew of Arms Deal first from the 1991 Full Circle, A Sport Climbing Guide to Jackson Hole and Surrounding Area by Maxwell Yanoff, and then in a more tangible understanding of it from friend and mentor Chuck Odette.

A few weeks ago i thought it would be fun to revisit Arms Deal seventeen years later! Heather, Chad Alldredge and Riley Everett Rollins accompanied me today for a walk with nostalgia.

Here's some sports action of Arms Deal 5.13b

Chad working out the opening moves

Chad mid route

Riley fighting the crux

Me and the kneebar

smiling through the crux

Riley, Arms Deal, and the south fork of Teton Canyon

This route was a monumental part of my foundation as a climber. It was humbling and exciting to have that experience again today with my wife and some good friends. A full circle experience you might say. Just like what was done for me seventeen years ago, i was able to pass along the experience of this landmark route. I know Heather, Chad and Riley will be back; the addiction of sequencing and movement on this route was burning bright in their eyes as we headed for the car.

THE FINS, East Idaho's best limestone

2010-07-25T00:18:00.005-06:00

A great day at the Yellow Cake and Discovery Wall.

Heather Lords almost flashing Martini 5.12a

Matt TeNgiao on the redpoint ascent of Pure Rock Fury; the most difficult route to date at the Fins

A fun warm up equipped by Dave Bingham on the Yellow Cake Wall called 51, 5.11d

Heather flashing the 5.12a to the left of Avitar on the Yellow Cake Wall

Yellow Cake Wall

This line has been nick-named The Son of Discovery 5.13a

still going...

2010-07-24T11:04:00.003-06:00

New boulder problems are still coming to life at the Dam Boulders. We've been going late in the evening and staying until midnight. Man, are we having fun! A friend asked the question the other night... "and why is it you're not in Canada like you were planning on being this summer?" I replied with a smile... "Damn bouldering..."

Riley Everett Rollins experiencing Chocolate Eruption

A Day at Dierkies

2010-07-18T20:07:00.001-06:00

A Dierkies afternoon with friend, mentor, and down right good guy, Dave Bingham

Heather running from the pump in a sea of steep choss on my all time favorite Dierkie's Alcove route, Black Thing - 5.11

Hiding from the heat in the Skunk Cave on Belly Full of Fire - 5.10d

Heather floating up the wicked steep Skunk Cave Classic, Mac Daddy - 5.11d

An opinion, that's all...

2010-07-16T20:47:00.005-06:00

Some people really get excited about the Fins. Me, not so much. Sure it's great stone, which is somewhat of a rarity in East Idaho but i can't help but see it as that one wall most people don't spend much time on at the local climbing gym... you know that boring vertical wall? Think about it, when was the last time you were so excited about the vertical wall at the gym??

This may sound a bit harsh to those friends of mine who think the Fins are the BOMB but i can rest easy knowing that our friendship isn't based on my opinion of the Fins!! I will say that i have enjoyed a couple of the routes out there; specifically, Solstice, Huck You, Avitar, and Shaken Not Stirred. I bet the Fins lovers are pretty much laughing at me right now, but hey, that's cool... I'm just not that into vertical stone which lacks any sort of enjoyable features outside of some good pockets and crimps. No corners. No overhangs. No changing angles. Just plain ol' vertical plywood with crimps and pockets... :-)

But hey, the place sure is pretty and has a great view!

Heather crushing the red taped route.. Only Time Will Tell 5.12a

Only Time Will Tell 5.12a

That's me on the blue taped route.. Koona 5.12a

Heather and i had a great day with Matt, Tom and Rick! Thanks for dragging me up there for my anual token Fins visit, i can't wait to go back (i'm being serious)! Ohh, and just remember; all of the above smack talk, it's an opinion, that's all...

what do you do for your community?

2010-07-15T10:30:00.005-06:00

This video speaks volumes about community. It also defines my thoughts about crag secrecy in easily digestible phrases.

I came to love bouldering through my experiences in the Southeast with many of my friends in this video. Although the bouldering was amazing, it was the deeply connected community and the southern hospitality that brought bouldering to life for me.

A few years ago, Heather and I spent a couple 0f days with Mike McClure and Tammy Stowe as they showed us around Swan Falls and Reynold's Creek. I have dabbled in bouldering for many years but it was on that trip i saw bouldering in a much different light. Yet, beyond that, the hospitality from Mike and Tammy made the experience whole. Their excitment to share with us was so comfortable; like being at home.

Heart of Stone - Documentary Short from Andrew Kornylak on Vimeo.

Anytime someone wants to visit and take the tour of our community crags, come on over for a real Southeast (....Idaho) experience!

endless summer

2010-07-08T00:22:00.004-06:00

I have now recorded over seventy established boulder problems in the Lower Teton River Canyon with photos of most of the problems! Heather and I have been spending our spare time at home working on a complete guide that will be available in basic print out format. We will continue to collect info, take photos, and establish new routes in our spare time and hopefully have this paper guide available in the fall when the weather will once again be good for bouldering at the Dam Boulders.

In the meantime, here are some photos of the recent development this week.

Heather on the new Chamber of Secrets

Joe C. caught with his hand on The Chambermaid

Joe C. and The Chambermaid

Sam Perkins experiencing Grace Under Water on the south side of the Walrus Boulder

Heather starting up The Walrus and the Carpenter

The Walrus and the Carpenter

Another perfect summer evening with friends at the Dam Boulders

cleaning house at the Dam Boulders

2010-07-05T23:50:00.006-06:00

What do you get when you excavate hundreds of pounds of lumber blocking access to big boulders in the Lower Teton River Canyon??... PROJECTS!!

Sticking the dyno to "The big lip hold" on Project #1

Chad Sr. hanging from terrible holds while setting up for the dyno to "the big lip hold" on Project #1

The big sloper on Project #2

Project #2

Two difficult projects and four established boulder problems emerged from underneath hundreds of pounds of driftwood just east of the Cheese Wedge at the Big Dam Boulder Sector. A few hours of lumberjackin' and rock tossing for the addition of more good quality bouldering is always worth the effort and dirt in my eyes. Thanks for the help Heather L, Jennica H., and Chad Sr.

walking with Watkins

2010-07-03T22:28:00.008-06:00

I walked down memory lane with an old friend today. There was a time many years ago when Eli and I, along with a few other close friends found ourselves clinging to boulders in the Lower Teton River Canyon. Eli has been and always will be a seeker of adventure but this is only one of the many threads which bind us together as friends. He was a support during the disintegration of a long lasting and important relationship, a companion in dealing with the tragic and sudden loss of a best friend, and simply by being an all around good guy, Eli was a part of the circle of friends who helped me get my life together. Not to mention a big supporter of Heather and I getting married.

We have climbed ice and mixed routes together, adventured on obscure Teton rock routes together, and explored the Lost River Range in winter. And while we accomplished some great feats together; like linking three routes together in a day on the East Face of Table Mountain in the Tetons and climbing the ridiculously thin ice smears at the head of Rock Creek below the north face of Mt. Borah, we also spent a lot of time on local sport climbs and bouldering at the Big Dam Boulder.

A father of two beautiful girls and married to the perfect wife, Eli makes his way through this world as a big time Lawyer with an office in the Sears Tower. Yet despite his professional success in this crazy world, he can't escape the pull of gravity and the need to rise above it. Only in town (Rexburg) for just a few days, Eli made the time to get a quick tour of the latest bouldering development at the Dam.

Eli joined me, Heather, my little sister Debbi, Jaron, Jennica and a few of their kids for an afternoon of bouldering. We toured many of the new problems at the Big Dam Boulder Sector; burning up routes like dry grass in a prairie fire before walking back physically spent and missing a few layers of skin on our finger tips.

We picked up Justin B. and Chase on our way out of the canyon and made a quick stop at the Power Box Boulders so they could watch us fall of the easy problems while we watched them crush everything! After some humorous attempts our group headed up the switchbacks while Justin and Chase disappeared to their "secret" project!

Eli being spotted by Chad Jr. in the Crypt

Eli making sort work of Rocket From the Crypt while Chad Jr, Jaron, Jennica, and Debbi moved pads and cheered!

Chad Jr. sticking the opening moves on San Callisto V9

That's me hanging from the big holds on San Callisto

The top-out on San Callisto

Although Eli was only able to spend a few short hours with us, he commented on the positive vibe he experienced with the crew we had out today. Both Heather and I agreed that we are lucky to have a tight group of climbing friends here in the Upper Snake River Valley. He was also impressed with the new routes and only just two encounters with Rattlesnakes.

My mind is heavy with nostalgia; with thoughts of friends from that chapter of my life. Memories, like souvenirs collected, were dusted off and admired once again.

Memory Lane was an enjoyable place to walk down today. Thank you Eli.

summer heat, musings, and amature vids

2010-07-01T23:26:00.008-06:00

Walking to the Weeping Cave during the hottest part of the day in order to climb in the cool evening temps was all most too much for me today. I'm not a big fan of the heat. It's nice for about a day... while sitting on a beach... in a foreign country... on and Island... but it's just not something i want to deal with on a regular basis.

The last few times we've been to the Weeping cave, the temps have been too hot for me to work on the Basilisk so for something to do while Heather works on Qt. of Blood Technique I (with the help of Riley Everett Rollins) equipped a new line in the choss on the left side of the cave. In my mind, this route has two issues.
1. The rock is super choss
2. The ground raises upward as the climb goes out.

This may not sound like a big deal since most of the routes I've established have been on chossy rock but, given the fact that you could break a hand or foot hold off at anytime, plus the ground rising up behind you required a bit of over bolting for me to feel comfortable with the idea of people climbing this line. Despite the closely spaced bolts, i think you could still possibly hit the ground if you mess up clipping the 4th bolt... and of course the 4th bolt is the most powerful clip of the route... go figure... Sound like something you wanna try right??

Dean Lords philosophy 101
I think it's pretty easy for anyone to establish a 5.12, 5.13, or 5.14 on good stone; but it takes a real effort to turn choss in that same difficulty range into an enjoyable and reasonably safe route. It's not just bolting, sequencing, then sending; its hours, days or weeks (in the case of several of my South Park routes) of tireless cleaning, hunting for the best possible and safest bolt placements, which, are never where they need to be for the best clip stances, and settling for.. "well, that's the best i could do to bring this piece of choss to life". Perhaps my down fall is opening routes with others in mind rather than some sort of personal agenda?

Back to the Weeping Cave
Heather and Riley worked hard on the Qt. of Blood while i warmed up for several hours solo choss busting on the newly equipped line on the left side of the cave before Nat Meacham and I turned our efforts into actual attempts.

This is the opening sequence into the first crux! I'd advise to clip the second bolt and use the first bolt to keep the rope out of your way. There really isn't a way to clip the second bolt before you could clip the third, and you'd likely hit the ground.

The day ended well. Riley made progress on Qt. and Heather was able to link the two dyno's together between the first and second bolts. Wade S. walked up Sasquatch on his second attempt and i was able to red point the newest addition to the Weeping Cave, Choss Choking Hoss, 5.13

We all celebrated like summer time junkies; with Mav Dog's and Chocolate Milk!

Community Defined

2010-06-28T12:06:00.002-06:00

There is no doubt in my mind that Heather and I are blessed to live in such an amazing and beautiful place. Nearby family and friends along with vast country side and a life time of adventures are what keep us engaged locally. I have often talked about the close knit climbing community and the joy that we find in being a part of it. Ego, secrecy, and elitism are hard to come by in these parts and i could not be happier being a part of this climbing community.
Generosity, compassion, and motivation define our community here in the Snake River Valley.

Saturday morning we found an envelope on our front door with a letter (below) and some cash inside. This act of generosity by one individual or collectively as a group is a testament of the caliber of individuals who call this place home. The theft of my three crash pads is a complete bummer, but the compassion from this community is a sure sign of a community who can and will look after one another. We thank you for your friendship and for the cherished memories we have with many of you. The friendships i speak of stretch around the world and i must thank two others, Doug Shepard and Corey King, for their kind emails offering up their personal bouldering pads. You guys are awesome!

I ordered a new crash pad today... LETS GO CLIMBING!

Dear Dean & Heather Lords,

This local climbing community has developed and been enlivened into one of camaraderie and friendship through a mutual love of climbing, not in small part through years of peoples tireless service and effort like that displayed by yourselves. As a community we have been blessed to enjoy much in the way of local sport and traditional routes as well as high alpine routes and more recently, bouldering. Unfortunately the self focus of a small minority, in or out of the climbing community, has endeavoured consciously or unconsciously to undermine the open and sharing relationships that have thus been formed. This note is to say, keep your chin up, know that what happens to one or the few affects and has effects on us all, and there is still reason to celebrate and trust in us as a community. We are friends, and when a friend is in need, we as a community can effectively act in deed. You deserve the very best, your efforts and passion for climbing are appreciated and necessary for the proper spirit and future of climbing here in Eastern Idaho and indeed the world. Enclosed are some funds, although small, that will hopefully be of assistance with replacing physical property that was lost and more importantly in renewing ones faith in our local climbing community and indeed humanity at large.

Best wishes, Climb On!

choss choking hoss

2010-06-27T17:58:00.007-06:00

There is a new route in the Weeping Cave! Riley Everett Rollins and I cleaned and drilled this new line which connects with the ending of Hoss, Choss, and Chaos. The opening dyno will give you a good idea what the line is all about!

The stone on the left side of the cave is a bit chossy to say the least. A high first bolt requires a stick clip to start the route which then follows a line of closely spaced bolts to protect you from hitting the deck on this short route. A couple of the bolts are in weird locations simply due to the lack of good stone where i wanted to bolts to go. The line may not be the most esthetic, on the best stone, or with perfect bolt placements, but it sure is a lot of fun to climb! Our new line will likely clock in at the 5.12+/.13- range.

Here are some photos of the new STEEP route called Choss Choking Hoss
Sorry, the photos aren't that great.

summertime is...

2010-06-24T23:36:00.004-06:00

Nat Meacham projecting at the Weeping Cave

by definition

2010-06-22T23:09:00.005-06:00

Basilisk: a legendary reptile reputed to be king of serpents and said to have the power to cause death with a single glance

Dean's definition of Basilisk: an overhanging line of crimps and slopers through two bulges, a knee-bar rest, and a head-wall of bullet limestone at the Weeping Cave. Thought to be by far the most difficult yet attainable route i have ever worked on... for reals.

got me hangin' on a rope

2010-06-19T23:45:00.003-06:00

The theft of my crash pads and lack of money to replace them has forced me to hang from a rope again! I'm not gonna lie, i have really enjoyed my focus with bouldering this spring. The ability to reinvent myself on a regular basis has kept moving over stone as adventurous as the day i first came into contact with it.

Heather and I decided to visit the Weeping Cave in Palisades Creek today. She wanted to work on Matt TeNgiao's masterpiece, Quart of Blood Technique and i wanted to try my luck on the Basilisk project. We rounded up some good friends who we knew would be motivated to project routes with us and spend the better part of the day fighting hard, falling off, and just hangin' on a rope.

Heather warming up on the super fun route, Sasquatch 5.10c; another TeNgiao work of art!

Justin Avenius powering into the crux corner on the Quart of Blood Technique (project) 5.12+

Justin in the thick of it

Heather Lords stylin' the crux on the Quart of Blood Technique

Calm and collected. Heather mid crux.

The weather was darn near perfect; ideal temps, overcast, and a slight breeze. A thirty minute period of wind and rain late in the afternoon rolled on by, but we were still cranking away on dry rock... well, mostly dry rock. The four left most routes in the Cave are seeping in a few places but dry stone is easily found.

Heather, Justin and Riley all made pretty quick work sequencing the moves on the Quart of Blood Technique with each of them making two full laps on the route. Matt TeNgiao hasn't been able to return and make the first proper send of his rig so we all felt the just thing to do was to get the route dialed, and then come back after he sends it. Perhaps this seems a bit strange to some of you, but for us, the whole process of establishing routes means something and none of us feel the need to take our turn out of order. Go get it Mr. T. it's waiting for you!

As for the Basilisk, I had a break through on the upper bulge! I grabbed, hung on to, and pulled off of several holds that i couldn't come close to touching last year. Although light years away from being strong enough to put it all together, this is a huge success for me!

Thanks for all of the efforts and hard work to establish this climbing zone Matt. So many people are psyched on your superb routes.

gone missing...

2010-06-15T22:28:00.001-06:00

I cached three bouldering pads Friday night (6/11/10) down by the Big Dam Boulder for various friends to use while I was away for work. As of Sunday afternoon those three pads have come up missing. Perhaps someone outside of those who knew the location happened upon them and cached them in another location or carried them out of the canyon??

If anyone has information regarding the location of my Metolius Collosus (green), Metolius Boss Hogg (blue/black) and black Mammut pad, please contact me at deanlords@gmail.com

If in fact these pads were stolen it would be a sad reflection of where our small, tight knit community is headed. As some one who believes in sharing and creating a healthy and unified climbing community, it would be a sad thing to know that my kindness and willingness to share information with our community has been taken advantage of with the theft of my property. Let's all hope this is not the case. Any info on the location of these pads would be great. It will be expensive for me to replace them so i can continue my efforts in the establishment of the Lower Teton River Canyon bouldering.

Thanks...

Dean Lords

The Teton Dam Bouldering Zone

2010-06-10T12:30:00.035-06:00

Here's a bit of history in video format for everyone on the Teton Dam failure. I always marvel at the destruction/creation of natures forces when i walk along the the road in the bottom of the canyon.

This is an overview of the specific sectors in the Teton Dam Zone with highlights of the features at the Big Dam Boulder sector. Obviously this is an incomplete overview of established problems and projects as there are many, many easy problems that we (and others) have done over the years and projects not yet talked about. I'm sure a more complete guide will appear on Joel Neilson's web page which was created specifically for the climbing/bouldering at the Teton Dam site. However, this should be a good kick start for information on his page and a good "teaser" to get people down to the west end.

The style of movement at the Big Dam Boulder Sector is distinctly different than that of the Quarry. You can expect steeper, more gymnastic climbing which tends to favor all heights and abilities more than the Quarry Sector. Not to mention, many of the problems are less intimidating due to their shorter nature. Like the Quarry the stone is Volcanic Tuff/Ryolite.

Don't be lazy. Walk the 20 minutes. You'll have fun! Take a brush and clean things up if you do go out there. I noticed many of the older problems need some attention. And if you're going to establish new problems please do so with others in mind; brush the holds and do a thorough job so the end result is a clean quality line that others will enjoy. I am open to suggestions on the V grades to any of the problems listed here and the star ratings are based on my personal opinion of enjoyment!

Click on the images below for better detail.

The Teton Dam Bouldering SectorsLooking west (down stream) from the Dam Site
1. Switcheroo Erratics
2. The Quarry Sector
3. The Gothic Boulder
4. Lilly's Boulder
5. Brad Pit Boulder
6. The Big Dam Boulder Sector

The Big Dam Boulder SectorAs viewed from the two-track dirt road (looking south).
0. This is where #1 use to be!
1. The Cheese Wedge
2. Catacomb projects
3. The Crypt
4. Chick Rock
5.The Walrus
6. The Big Dam Boulder

The Cheese Wedge Down climb #2.
1. Open - We brushed some of it, but this wedge shaped face needs a bit more attention.
2. Sakura*** - Sit start using crimps on either side of the arete. Make a couple of hard pulls to the jug and then a bump or one big pull to the top.
3. Feta* - Sit start right of #2. Follow holds strait up. Holds on #2 are off.
4. The Big Cheese** - Same start as #3. Follow a line of crimps and slopers up and right finishing with a big move from a right hand side-pull crimp to the lip of the boulder.

**Corey King Project opposite of #1 (this one will be AWESOME!)

The Catacombs 1. The Crypt
Right to Left:
A. Rocket from the Crypt*** - Sit start on the right side. Jug hall and crimp up and left, exiting on the top left side of the feature.
B. Scream, Dracula, Scream*** - Sit start using two low crimps in the center of the face; under a small overhang. Pull up and right to another crimp near the right edge of the boulder, then back left. Connect with #A for two moves then finish strait up.
C. Ditch Digger* - Left side sit start. Move strait up and finish on #A

2. San Callisto*** - crawl into the hole. Start with the undercling. Desperate pinches and hideous slopers on the underside of this bulging and near horizontal "ships prow"; eventually reaching good holds near the top. The block and boulder to the right is off. The hardest established and recorded route to date.
3. Open Project - needs some cleaning but otherwise may not be too difficult.
4.Riley Everett Rollins Project - Sit start on the left edge. Move up a couple of moves then power right and up using pinches and underclings, then...????

Chick Rock

The Walrus

1. The Walrus - Sit start on small edges. Pull up and onto the slab to the right then up again.
2. Snake Eyes*** - Sit start on good holds in the crack. Move up and left palming the lip until two small pockets side by side (the snake eyes) can be reached. Pull to the lip. An area classic!!

The Big Dam Boulder
The West End
1. Left Side Love Handles*** - Sit start near the "cave". Follow the lip of the boulder all the way to the top of #3. Press out the mantle.
2. Love Hate Love* - Sit start. Either a BIG dyno to the jug or pull on a couple of sharp in-cut crimps. Press out the mantle.
3. Love Handles*** - Sit start with hands in the vertical pocket just right of the corner. Pull up to the jug rail and follow it up and left. Press out the mantle.
4. Dam Nation** - Sit start using the obvious big edge on the left side of the inside corner. Move up and left using pockets to gain the upper pocket/slot on the right side of the outside corner. Pinch a cool red knob and slap the top. Press out the mantle.
5. Dam the Man ** - Same start hold as #4. Move up to a pocket/side pull in the corner, hike your feet up and either static or huck to the good edge just left of the top of the inside corner
6. Another Dam Sit Start * - Sit start with hands on sloping rail. Heel hook the bottom of the rail and pull up to pockets. Traverse left using pockets and edges below the lip. Press out the mantle at the top of #3, #4, or #5
7. The Big Dam Pump - Start on the far right side and traverse the lip all the way to the left.
**Many variations to these identified lines

South side view of the Big Dam Boulder

motivated

2010-06-10T01:18:00.009-06:00

I convinced Riley into moving large amounts of loose stone and cutting out a big patch of wicked sticker bushes at a couple of possible lines Corey and I looked at yesterday. Riley is the one who helped Heather and I build the massive landing at the Gothic Boulder so i know he's not afraid of manual labor!

The work went pretty quick and soon we found ourselves brushing holds and attempting some of the boulder problems. I've not had the best luck with my fingers the last few weeks and have been trying to take it easy. Several of the new problems offer some pretty big holds that felt okay for my stressed tendons however, my smashed middle finger from yesterday throbbed like a son of a gun anytime i put pressure on it.

We established some of the best routes (in my opinion) so far this spring at an area near the Big Dam Boulder on the west end of the Teton Dam Zone; three high quality long and steep jug hauls and two difficult projects.

Thanks for the hard work Riley and continued motivation for all of the manual labor in establishing quality boulder problems. Sorry you were in class today, Corey. Your Cheese Wedge project is still waiting for you to send it!

Rocket from the Crypt. Bigger, steeper, and longer than it looks in this photo!

That's a jug... right?

Jug Haulin' on Scream, Dracula, Scream!!

Starting on the new project.

I shot some photos of the Big Dam Boulder, The Walrus, The Crypt, Chick Rock, and the Cheese Wedge and will put together a basic topo of these erratics. There is no reason not to put in the additional minimal effort in getting out there from The Quarry. It took us 20 minutes at a slow pace from the Big Dam Boulder to the car and most of it is easy flat walking along the old two-track road. It was about 12 minutes from The Quarry.

Heather sends and a gift from the Man upstairs

2010-06-08T22:24:00.005-06:00

The rains finally let up last night but the temperature quickly climbed during the afternoon hours today. A crew of us headed out to the Teton Dam. Heather wanted to work on some of her projects and I wanted to make the trek out to the Big Dam Boulder.

Eastern Idaho has been under the water faucet for the last few weeks and many of the area rivers are well above flood stage; the Teton River is no exception to the flooding situation. As a matter of fact, i haven't seen this much water flowing down the Lower Teton River ever.

Most people know the Teton Dam failed due to the unstable nature of the volcanic rock in-which the Teton River has cut through to create the canyon that it is now. Well, you add a lot of water to the stone and you are likely to get other minor and major failures which is exactly what happened at the Big Dam Boulder Sector of the canyon. A very large slab of rock cut loose during this last serious rain event and augured into the ground, sticking strait up into the air. This wonderful gift has now increased to total offerings at the Big Dam Boulder Sector!

We brushed oodles of mud and dirt from the boulder; some of it likely acting as the weak cement holding the massive stone in place high on the hillside. With a lot of effort and and dirt in our eyes, Heather and I along with the King family cleaned off five new boulder problems on what we are calling The Cheese Wedge. Here are some photos of the new piece of stone.

The Cheese Wedge

That's me on Heathers super cool arete. Crimps to jugs!

Heather working on the top half of my left to right face problem. Small, slopey holds and big moves on a slightly overhung face.

Heather making the big final move to the lip.

The mid section.

When Heather walked away from Lilly's Man-Child a few days ago, she was beat down and bruised from the top of her foot all the way up her left thigh from fighting with the opening moves. After only a half dozen attempts this afternoon, she made a proper send of this very difficult boulder problem.

Here's the actual send footage!

are you tired...

2010-06-03T22:24:00.003-06:00

of all this Dam Bouldering yet? I think Heather might be! She and Riley headed down to the Crank Cave this morning to work on Soul Power. I met them at the cave a few hours later after tackling some work i needed to get done this morning. After working on Soul Power the last few weeks, Riley Rollins got the redpoint on his second attempt of the day... NICE WORK DUDE! Heather did well too, but she was unable to get it done today. I'm sure it won't be long before she crushes it!

Heather and Soul Power

This evening Heather joined me for another brushing session at the Dam Boulders. This time we focused on the upper most erratics closest to the Teton Dam itself. Our time was short but the fruits of our labors yielded two fun boulder problems.

Heather on the opening sequence of Hairdresser on Fire

Roll With It
is located in the same cluster of erratics as the above route.

I think both Heather and I are looking forward to my upcoming trip to Vermont to be done with so we can start our summer travels. Until then, we both have a few fun things to project close to home.

to wish impossible things

2010-06-01T23:38:00.005-06:00

I needed something. As it turns out, that something was Chad Alldredge.

Yesterday i walked away from my Gothic Boulder project feeling completely beat down; not knowing what i needed to boost my spirits. Falling off of easy problems and injuring the tendons in my middle finger by being stupid and climbing crimpers in the rain didn't help either. My feet hadn't stayed on anything all day, so why would i think Lumber Jack would be a good idea?

This afternoon Heather wanted to work on The Thing That Only Eats Hippies and Lily's Man-Child. Chad was keen to join us and sample those problems as well. My intentions were to carry pads and spot so i could give my finger a few days to decide what it was going to do.

After six or eight tries, Chad dispatched The Thing That Only Eats Hippies and Heather was able to link the crux moves until she broke the good part off of the bad hold! She did the crux one last time with the broken hold before we headed to Lily's where Chad made quick work of the Man-Child and Heather got close to sending it.

We walked around to look at few things until Chad suggested i show him my project at the Gothic Boulder. It wasn't long before we had our shoes on and i convinced myself that big holds would not further injure my finger. After we each sampled some of the movement Chad and I trundled a large slab that was two feet thick and as big as the hood of my car. This "killer" was hanging above a possible problem and took little effort to get it to go! The good thing is we got it out of the way. The bad thing is it landed right on the platform for my project. While this is a minor set back requiring some serious landing zone modification, the end result for the evening was seeing a glimpse of the possible with my project. It's on hold until we make the landing safe again but thanks to Chad, the project is consuming me once again!

The Bela Lugosi project at the Gothic Boulder:

Memorial Day Afternoon

2010-05-31T22:44:00.012-06:00

We added a few new problems to the Dam Boulders today. I made a few half-hearted attempts with my line at the Gothic Boulder and quickly realized i needed to come back with much more focus than what i had today.

Heather did add her new route to the left corner/face on the Gothic Boulder. (top photo)

We did two routes on an overhanging erratic north of the Gothic Boulder. Well, i guess it was actually three on this little boulder if you count the sit start left edge/rail. The line coming out of the pit is great pulling on good holds while the other line starting to the right is a bit more tricky with slopers and a fun "cut your feet loose and heel-hook to your left" sequence to it. I'll put some names to to these problems and i think we'll just call the feature itself the "Brad Pit Boulder".

I thought I'd remember more than what i do about the various problems i explored on the many small erratics littered along the canyon floor, but as i walked through, my mind seemed as dusty as the problems themselves. I guess it doesn't really matter to me. I'm just so excited to see this place getting the interest it deserves.

Speaking of such interest, we witnesses some terrifying displays of poor judgement at the Quarry. While i feel bad about yelling at some guys for climbing the hillside above the bouldering zone while their friends bouldered unaware of the impending barrage of big rocks that would soon be carelessly kicked off; narrowly missing the two guys below as large rocks passed by at terminal velocity, i don't feel bad about caring if people get hurt. Please understand that your actions as someone who climbs and/or recreates ANYWHERE does effect the overall understanding of what we do in the eyes of the general public and, more importantly, the various Land Management Agencies who could easily close access to the places we love to recreate. In short: think about what you are doing as one careless action could effect and entire community of climbers and recreationalists. Climbing is a privilage not a right.

.

Well... this is pretty much how my day went. I could blame it on the rain and wet foot holds, but it still wouldn't help my cause! These are a couple of short clips of me on the right trending rail that we called "Lily's Man-child" which is left of Lily's Mantle. Wait for IT at the end of the seconde clip!

This is a great problem! On the west face of Lily's Boulder start low on the flat topped big edge on the left corner. Go up and follow the rail to the right; topping out on the highest peak of the boulder. It's much more difficult than it appears... well at least it was for me. And for the record, i was finally able to do all of the moves without falling off athough, it did take me the better part of our afternoon!

Also, we each did the Lily's Mantle problem and i thought this was a unique and very worthwhile little problem! Nice job Blair and crew!

In this video, Heather dances up Lumber Jill during one of our many afternoon sprinkles of rain.

Gothic Boulder

2010-05-29T20:17:00.013-06:00

A few days ago Heather and I explored a bit more down canyon from the Teton Dam to look at some features i remembered from several years ago. I am finding that it helps to revisit places and look at options with a bit more vision and experience. One feature in particular was exciting enough to suffer copious amounts of rain today while preparing a safe landing zone. I think the smart climbers where climbing and training in the gym today instead of hiding underneath a massive boulder digging out mud and rolling rocks around, but hey, the Gothic Boulder is mostly ready to go once the weather clears up a bit. We prepared two separate landing zones which will hopefully offer three or four individual lines; two that utilize the roof feature, one on the nice left wall, and one just left of that on another overhanging boulder/chockstone.

My knee was a bit sore after several hours of digging and twisting but i seem to be getting by well enough. Hopefully next week I'll feel good about falling off tall things. Monday should bring some additional base work and brushing of the problems along with a core group of motivated friends to work hard to play hard! In the meantime, here are a few photos and videos to pass the time!

Being a dork to keep our motivation up in the rain!

Rolling some flat rocks into place for our sweet landing zone! Do you think it's raining??

obsessed

2010-05-27T22:05:00.005-06:00

Heather and I headed out to the Teton Dam site again this afternoon. The weather was a bit threatening as we drove through patches of scattered showers. For some reason the showers seemed to float around the Lower Teton Canyon and the bouldering area stayed dry for the most part.

The canyon was busy with off-road vehicles and a large flatbed and crane plucking boulders from various piles of stone. Likely for landscaping of fill material. It was a bit odd really, but I'm sure they thought we were just as strange wandering around with our crash pads!

We added some additional stone and wood to the landing zone on The Thing That Only Eats Hippies and did more brushing and cleaning before giving it a good session. Heather worked on it for a bit while i shot some photos. But before you view the photos you should understand where the name of the route comes from!

After The Thing That Only Eats Hippies Heather and I wandered down the canyon to explore before returning to Hot Lava. On our way out of the canyon we passed Jaren on his way down. I have to admire his obsession with the place given the fact that he only had a half hour before needing to return home. NICE WORK DUDE!

Heather on the right way variation of Hot Lava

That's me on the left way variation of Hot Lava.

Heather flashing on her first attempt... until she fell off!

The full video beta for The Thing That Only Eats Hippies

Project Topo

2010-05-26T10:41:00.017-06:00

**UPDATED

Chelsea Wood Rollins working on the newest addition to the Quarry. "The Thing That Only Eats Hippies" is located up and left from Hot Lava. Just look for the three foot tall landing zone made of logs and rocks beneath the lip of the boulder. We're not sure what lives in the cave but it leaves big turds!

The Quarry - Lower Teton River Canyon

click for a larger view

Photo: Justin B.

This is definitely premature in arrival, but i thought it would be good to give a brief overview of what the Quarry looks like. I have combined some select info to the photo and info Justin Brunson put together. This is only a selection of what has been done and not a full listing of the boulder problems. I believe Justin B. and Joel Nielson are putting together an Internet site with all of the info available. Which will serve the east Idaho community long after this blog post gets buried.

DIRECTIONS:

Find your way to the south side of the Teton Dam Site. Access is off of Hwy 33 east of Newdale, Idaho. At the end of the paved road turn right onto the dirt road and park. Hike due north, descending directly down into the Teton River Canyon. Bear northwest for about 50 yards once you drop over the canyon rim and follow a nice grassy clear cut between the trees and brush. Once you reach the bottom of the canyon, turn left and walk 50 yards to reach the Quarry on your left. Approx 3 minutes! Essentially you are descending the gully and bowl to the left of route 1 on the topo.

ROUTES:

RED: info gathered by Justin B.

The Thing That Only Eats Hippies - just up the hill and left of Hot Lava. Look for a large overhanging cave like boulder with a large pile of logs and rocks below the opening of the cave. Start on the right side and traverse the lip of the cave. Pull out and get serious about topping out!

1. Hot Lava - Shallow pocket with the right and move up to the corner with the left, then huck to the lip. OR, pocket with the left, hit the crimp up and right, then PULL to the lip.

2. Not Cho Cheese - Stand or Sit Start. Crimp up the triangle shaped face. The right edge of the boulder if off

3. Cool Ranch - Sit start. Follow the left trending right side rail/outside edge of the Doritos boulder. Holds on "Not Cho Cheese" to the left are off. First known ascent (FNA) Beth Avenius

4. Baby Slab - Easy and fun.

5. Jack in the Crack - Inside corner. Easy... but if you blow it, you're gonna fall a long way. The crux is near the top.

6. Killing of a Flash Boy (Dean Lords Project) - Two really difficult pocket pulls to a sloper finger hold, then the lip. Dam hard for just three moves.

7. The Floor is Liquid Nitrogen - Easy. Needs to be brushed and cleaned up a bit.

8. Bazooka Joe - Incredible and difficult outside overhanging corner. This route is identical to the famous sport route at Smith Rocks called "Chain Reaction"! It looks the same, climbs the same, and is about the same height; only Bazooka Joe doesn't have any bolts! Stack a lot of pads for this highball.

9. Vendetta - Cool techy face climb. High.

10. No Name - FA, Chad Witbeck. Tall techy slab climb.

YELLOW: Dean Lords info

0. Biggy Slabs by Tom Smartt - Easy but tall slabby face climb.

1.Through the Never (open project) - Underclings to half pad crimps. Slightly overhung and very, very difficult. Don't fall off the left side of the landing!

2.Sippin' on Sunshine - Fun slab climb to the right of Vendetta. Make sure you pad the tall block on the right side of the landing zone!

3. Long Black Cadillac - Hard start to the pocket. Hard pull to the crimp. Hard pull to the rail. Hold on and don't fall off the top. The area classic!

4. The Seven Deadly Sins - Fun and moderately hard outside corner/rain problem. To make this legit, don't use anything to the right of the corner/rail.

5. Dirty Lieback - Crack that needs to be cleaned.

6. Sidewinder - On the upper most Tier is a diamond shaped block that looks like the head of a Rattlesnake. Sidewinder follows the right side of this feature. Sit start. Move up to the lip and traverse right on a series of pumping moves. Heel-hook and press out the top.

7. (Dean Lords) - needs to be brushed and cleaned. Name forthcoming.

8. Fun slab. Needs to be brushed.

9. Lumber Jill - Follow a line of holds on the left side of this left facing dihedral.

10. Lumber Jack - Sit start for full value. Follow a line of campus board crimps that trend right to left on the face of the dihedral. CLASSIC!

A couple of things to consider:

*I am not assigning V grades to any of my routes. Please feel free to do so if you'd like. I say just try hard if you like the problem!

*Lots of ticks in the spring.

*Lots of Rattlesnakes in the Summer.

**IMPORTANT... Please use chalk! This type of stone gets greasy very easily and will make the place a lot less enjoyable once it gets all greased up. Use chalk. If you are going to brush holds, please use a nylon or non metal brush to do so.

** If you're going to do the high ball problems, please do it right... with good attentive spotters and several pads. Accidents and injuries involving the Sheriff and/or EMS are never a good thing!

* There is a lot of misc trash down there; broken beer bottles, shot gun shells, etc. I've been packing a little bit of trash out every time i am down there. Maybe bring a small trash bag with you and pack a few things out from time to time!

the latest rage

2010-05-25T23:57:00.007-06:00

Images from the Quarry at the Teton Dam.

Tom Smartt and his massive index making the 4th ascent of "The Seven Deadly Sins"

Heather Lords with her shorter than average index fighting hard to make the reach on "The Seven Deadly Sins"

Heather Lords giving her finger tips a rest by palming her way up the pumpy lip traverse of "Sidewinder"

"Sidewinder"

Working on my project "The Killing of a Flash Boy"

Heather Lords flashing the highball plus bad landing boulder problem "Sippin' on Sunshine"

Chad Alldredge setting up for the crux reach on "Long Black Cadillac". This WAS the One Eyed Willie project.

Chad trying for the higher crimp on "Long Black Cadillac"

In the beginning...

2010-05-23T21:04:00.004-06:00

the Teton Dam Zone was a place i would visit often by myself during the day while Heather was teaching school. At that time, we lived in the nearby town of Teton, Idaho and access was just a few minutes away by car. I had a fun circuit of crack and face boulder problems at the Quarry before jogging down stream to the Big Dam Boulder for the overhanging jug hauls. During the Autumn of 2004 i was able to convince several close friends to join me for bouldering sessions, mainly at the Big Dam Boulder Sector.

The nearby college brought a lot of the people i am now close friends with to this area. And with most college towns, those friends have moved on to pursue life in other areas of the country. As our small group of motivated friends dwindled, so did our visits to the Lower Teton River Canyon and our interest in developing other regional climbing areas picked up.

Hearing about rekindled interest for several new college kids in the Teton Dam site peaked my excitement once again for this area.

Along with my new found motivation for further development in the Teton River Canyon, Heather and i, once again, have a strong friendly group of motivated climbers that we consider close friends to help us find meaning in what we do. For us, it's not so much about how cool climbing might be, but more so about being part of something that creates life long memories and close friendships. Seeing a line, cleaning it, and sharing that experience of development with our friends is a lot of fun and extremely motivational for us.

I guess I'm just trying to say thanks to all of those good friends we've been blessed with over the years. The memories and experiences Heather and I own are some of our most valued possessions.

back for more

2010-05-21T22:39:00.006-06:00

Another fine afternoon in the Lower Teton River Canyon! We returned to the Quarry sector equipped with an assortment of scrubbing brushes and additional crash pads. The result was nearly seven hours of scrubbing, bouldering, and falling. All of which left us with sore, skinless finger tips, motivation, and one injured knee... mine.

Here are a few photos from our exploits.

Descending into the Teton River Canyon

Chelsea Wood Rollins stepping up to "Lumber Jill"

Heather Lords bucket hauling on "Lumber Jill"

Heather Lords working out the crimpy rail problem of "Lumber Jack"

Chad Alldredge holds my wrist as i scrub the top of a new problem during an afternoon rain storm

Chad working hard on this incredible line which will have a name as soon as we come up with a good one! For now we've dubbed it "One Eyed Willie" due to the single circular pocket on this face.

Crimptastic!

Riley Everett Rollins displays the opening sequence as he pokes Willie in the Eye!

I also brushed and attempted the difficult outside corner to the right of "Willie". And keeping with the pirate theme of this block i am calling it "The Seven Deadly Sins"

Also of note: the ticks are out in full force down there!

a dam good time!

2010-05-20T18:44:00.008-06:00

This is how the west was won.

Riley Rollins in a wild west landscape

Those of us on the east side of Idaho woke up to a lot of rain and wind this morning; pretty much dampening any motivation for climbing outside.

Well, the wind blew so hard that it carried the storm clouds into Wyoming and by early afternoon a small group of boulder happy buddies were rolling toward the Teton River Canyon.

We first tried the west side approach with intentions of bouldering at the Dam Boulder and on the surrounding erratics but the gate was locked forcing us to head east to the Teton Dam Site. With several of the Rexburg area climbers re-exploring the first area i visited on a regular basis in 2004, i thought it would be fun to go back and see what all of the excitement was about!

Riley, Beth and I wandered around "The Quarry" as i reminisced about various exploits there early on in my exploration of lower Teton River Canyon. I call this sector of the Teton River Canyon zone the Quarry as it resembles the teared and blocky nature of most rock quarry's. It was cool to see chalk on some of the problems and to see how quickly the signs of my visits from nearly six years ago have vanished.

The history lesson quickly got old and we only had a limited amount of time, so it was time to boulder! I didn't give many names to the routes or features at this sector back in 2004 and i am super excited to get with the Rexburg crew to collaborate on identifying things. Basically I'm just excited that others are starting to catch the vision of an area i thought was pretty DAM cool!

Riley warming up on a fun little crimper of a climb i humorously dubbed "Not Cho Cheeze". Crimp and edge up thin potato chip-like edges in the center of the Doritos Boulder.

Beth working on the right side rail feature of the Doritos formation on lowest tier of the Quarry. This little face kinda reminds me of a Doritos Chip. Maybe this fun problem could be called "Cool Ranch"!! Sit start and follow the left sloping corner rail to the top. Using the holds on "Not Cho Cheeze" is off limits.

Beth sending Cool Ranch

There is a slightly overhung face on the 2nd Tier just right of what folks are calling Jack in the Crack. I attempted this face a few times in 2004. One of the lines offers a couple of small, shallow and slopping pockets to reach the lip. Feet are super difficult too. In this photo Beth reduces my gravity a bit so i can clean out the upper pocket! This Pocket Project is HARD!

Even though our time was short and we only did a few boulder problems, i had a dam good time revisiting this sector of the Teton River Canyon. It is easy for me to see why the Rexburg crew is so psyched on the place. I look forward to going back for more!

images from the New River Gorge, West Virginia

2010-05-19T22:37:00.006-06:00

I had an amazing time this past week at the New River Gorge in West Virginia. As always, the weather was mostly crap, but we managed to squeak in a few climbing days between biblical rain events.

Here are a few photos to tell the story.

The perfect West Virginia sign!

Hotel Dulles International Airport! If you have not spent the night in an airport, i recommend it at least once in your life.

Hanging out with some good friends:
Lynn Hill

Britney Griffith and Chris Sharma

Ronnie Jenkins and Tommy Morrision

Hanging out on some Rocks

Tommy on "Tubin Dudes" 5.13b

Justin from the Access Fund on the classic Hawks Nest boulder problem "The White Eyebrow" V7/8

Chad Alldredge warming up on "European Vacation" 5.12b

update from W. Virginia

2010-05-17T10:19:00.003-06:00

Well, typical to my last four visits to the this area the last couple of years, rain and generally poor climbing conditions keep us from having consistent and good climbing days. However, the fun times spent with friends like, Ronnie Jenkins, Lynn Hill, Matt Stark, and Russ Clune to name a few, keep the rainy day blah's to a minimum. We (me and Chad Sr.) have had a couple of okay days of climbing with more sampling than sending due to wet rocks and condensation on the steep routes from the correct humidity and temperatures. The 5.12b warm ups feel like 5.12d and the 5.13a's feel like 5.13c due to the extra grip and core power needed to squeeze the holds enough to stay on them!

Despite the lack of good climbing conditions, this trip has been fun. Some highlights are: Nearly getting whacked by a power pole being blown over by the wind and rain while driving down the highway which resulted in me swerving into oncoming traffic and doing a sweet 360 spin out; narrowly missing the power pole and live wires by just a few feet! This was followed by my connecting flight to Denver nearly crashing and having to return to Idaho Falls to make an emergency landing. Our return was more like riding in a bush plane than a passenger jet as the pilot flew the plane around the mountains and hills instead of over them. Have you ever been on a plane where people are screaming... "WE'RE GONNA CRASH AND DIE..." as the plane makes a nose dive through the storm clouds? I have!

Pretty exciting, eh? All the while I'm hanging out with friends here in Wet Virginia as Heather draws very close to sending her project at the Crank Cave back home in Idaho. Wish i was there sweetie! Crush it!

Ok, that's all for now!

a few more...

2010-05-09T20:14:00.004-06:00

Crank Cave pictures.

the power of soul

2010-05-08T22:35:00.007-06:00

The Crank Cave - Blackfoot Canyon, Idaho

Heather Lords searching for Soul Power, 5.13-

Crank Cave is a small basalt hole in the ground south and east of Idaho Falls. The bottom of the cave is lined with hideously loose river rock conglomerate. The actual basalt is sharp; bloody fingers are a given for any session at the Cave. Routes are short, powerful and would be better understood as a boulder rating than assigned a suggestion of difficulty with the YDS.

One of the four climbing sectors of Blackfoot Canyon, Crank Cave holds an array of the most difficult climbs in the Blackfoot Zone. Typically, the Playground Wall attracts the most attention with its enjoyable easy routes and classic basalt moderates. However, today there must have been some sort of orbital shift, aligning of planets, or an unexplainable sign from God. There were not any cars parked at the Playground Sector, which is weird for a nice spring-like day, but there were cars parked at the Crank Cave sector... again which is weird. In the end, 15 people from various groups throughout the Snake River Valley had all merged together for an afternoon session. That may not sound like a lot of people to some of you, but to those of us who frequent the Crank Cave, 15 people is about 13 more than any of us have ever seen out that at one time!

Some folks may have been bummed out by the sheer number of people, but the groups intermingled, shared belays and beta, and shouted encouragement to others. There was a lot of screaming for send power and a lot of soul being shared as people made new friends. I was psyched to see so many people trying hard!

Chad Alldredge rehearsing in his mind the move of Soul Power

We each did our respective warm up and watched others try hard on their projects before turning our efforts to the Matt TeNgiao masterpiece, Soul Power. This route is a brilliant line of powerful moves, some big, from large hold to large hold. Tricky feet and some cool sequences, Soul Power is in my opinion, one of the best routes in the Cave!

Heather Lords starting up Soul Power

Heather just above the crux but still having to pull hard and fight the pump!

Heather

Heather feeling the sun and the burn of Soul Power

That's me in the crux

Love it!

Chad Alldredge working out the steep moves between big pockets

Riley Rollins feeling the effects of Soul Power!

After Chad, Riley and Heather made two attempts each at redpointing the route, with each of them pulling every move and linking big section together. Especially exciting was Heather only hanging in two places on her second attempt. She has been working hard in the gym and it is paying off. I don't think I've seen her this strong... ever!

We then headed back to Idaho Falls late in the late evening and met up again for dinner at our favorite Mexican Restaurant, Jalisco's.

Left to Right:

Bree Hamel, Travis Von...., Chad Alldredge, Riley Rollins, Heather Lords, Dean Lords

Switzerland part II

2010-05-04T21:48:00.005-06:00

On the train from Zurich to Lucern

Rock climbing in the Italian Alps

Mammut Athletes from various parts of the world

Dinner Party

Guide Book... Don't pick up the bombs!

On the approach to our photo shoot.

Roadside Cross

David Lama

Me and my Japanese friend Yuka

Preparing for the photo shoot. This is my view of what will become one of the Mammut marketing concepts for 2011

Lunch time bouldering session at the head offices of Mammut.

One of the many climbing features at the Mammut gym in Zurich

My new friends!

Do exactly what this guy says...

the scenic side of my trip to Switzerland

2010-05-01T16:16:00.004-06:00

Here are some random images i took at many of the different places i was able to visit this last week.

I will put together a "trip report" post in a few days.

Swiss Update

2010-04-29T02:47:00.002-06:00

Check list:
Swiss Alps. Italian Alps. Famous Fred Nichole boulder problem. 8a in a day. 140 on the Autobahn with the top female climber from Austria behind the wheel. Largest climbing gym IN THE WORLD. Lensburg Castle. Swiss chocolate. Awesome pictures. Lost camera. Found camera. More awesome international friends. Good health. No jet lag. Limestone. Granite. Plastic. DISCO.

2010-04-25T05:58:00.001-06:00

Alive and kickin in the land of the Swiss. Still traveling to my final destination of Altdorf.

off to the Swiss Alps

2010-04-23T23:07:00.002-06:00

I'm leaving with a backpack and duffel full of climbing equipment and pulled muscles in my forearm from the climbing gym session this evening. Psyched for Swiss limestone. NOT PSYCHED to start the trip with an injury.

Photo of the Day

2010-04-21T23:14:00.002-06:00

Nat Meacham and his bionic arms!

Box Canyon - Lemhi Range, Idaho

2010-04-21T00:01:00.019-06:00

A doorway to the underworld?

Heather Lords feasting on a real life Texas Barbecue 5.12a

Weaner Dogs Ripped my Flesh 5.10c

A long way from anywhere, Box Canyon is a great little East Idaho gem! The southern tip of the Lemhi Range offers local and visiting climbers a unique (for East Idaho) limestone experience. The established routes offer something for everyone, short powerful bouldery sport climbs, hard single pitch crimp fests, and enjoyable moderates. However, the main attraction for many climbers visiting Box Canyon are the classic sport multi pitch routes. Generally slabby in nature with average spaced bolts, the multi pitch climbs are superb!

After a flurry of development, the Wood River Valley based climbers abandoned Box Canyon for the steeper and more pocketed walls at the Fins; leaving behind about 30 quality routes spread over 10 different zones. Further route development from other area activists have been halted due to a current Wilderness Study of the area.

I hear a lot of people say that the Box Canyon limestone is super sharp and correlate some of the crimp moves as to climbing on razorblades. I use to agree, but after climbing at many of the limestone sectors in Croatia, the Box Canyon stone is not that sharp compared to what other world class European areas offer. Sooo, stop your whining!

Texas Barbecue 5.12a
photo: N. Meacham

There are two zones in Box Canyon that offer multi pitch routes, the Bardini Wall and the Shade Wall. Both offer climbs up to three pitches in length. My favorite Box experience is the right hand route on the Shade Wall. Two nearly full rope pitches each, this route is spectacular in every way. The second pitch is the meat of the climb; it's easy to get lost in this sea of limestone crimps.

Heather at the anchors belaying Nat Meacham up the first pitch.

Heather on the stellar 5.11 second pitch!

It's easy to feel all alone on this route!

The Shade Wall in all of its glory! Can you spot the two climbers?

You can find all of the beta in Matt TeNgiao and Jerry Painter's guidebook, Sweet Spots of Eastern Idaho. Pick up a copy and help support our local guidebook authors and area route developers! Information is also available at http://www.seiclimbing.com/

Currently there is a bolting ban for the Box Canyon area due to nearby Indian artifacts and petroglyphs. If you visit, please treat this climbing area with respect, pick up your trash, don't be stupid, and help continue a healthy relationship with the BLM. Beware of rattlesnakes, summer mid day sunshine, cactus and the WIND!

Owl Cove Classics

2010-04-17T22:51:00.012-06:00

Chad "Sr." Alldredge and I during our morning commute.

Freudian Slip anyone?

Chad "Jr." Witbeck visits Nurse Ratchet.

Heather floating weightless on Space Violator with Nathan Smith as her ground control.

The final BIG move on Space Violator... it's COSMIC!

Heather goes Coma-Toes!

While many other climbers baked their brains out in the hot April sun at the south facing All American Wall, we lounged in the sun and climbed in the shade all day at the Owl Cove! Our group of five enjoyed the breeze as it carried cool air from the nearby Snake River and the solitude of being the only climbers in the Cove. Later in the afternoon, two ambitious souls arrived in the Cove and started to work on their latest high line project. They were just as excited as we were to see another group!

Owl Cove offers several worthwhile sport classics and a few worthy traditional adventures. If you have access to a boat, getting to the Cove is easy, however, it's still worth the extra walking effort from the standard parking lot! Many of the routes are at least twice as long as most other Massacre Rocks zones. Bring your power, but be ready to use your endurance on the long Owl Cove Classics!

jammin'

2010-04-15T19:26:00.011-06:00

There is nothing like having 4 climbing zones just 10 miles (in two different directions) from the house; each offering 4 different styles of climbing!

A quick afternoon trip to Midget Widget with Nat and Heather. As always, the routes were entertaining!

Yup, they are still short but worth a visit just for the experience and joy of plugging in gear!

Need more info? Check out the local SEIClimbing website :

http://www.seiclimbing.com/?page_id=171

a traditional Massacre

2010-04-13T21:47:00.009-06:00

Twist and Shout 5.10+
Main Wall - Massacre Rocks, Id.

Located at the Bop and Beta sector of the Main Wall, Twist and Shout is a three star thin crack Massacre classic! Steep but easy climbing leads to a bouldery seam protected with small stoppers or #0 Metolius TCU's. Equipped with sport anchors for ease of lowering!

First Ascent: ??

Connor Columns

2010-04-11T10:21:00.012-06:00

I first visited the columnar basalt zone on Connor Creek Summit in 1994. We only did two routes, but since that single visit to this small crag, i have always joked that the best crack climbing at the City of Rocks was at Connor Columns! Not that i think there isn't good crack climbing at the City of Rocks, but in all of my years climbing there, i have never discovered a single formation offering a dozen lines, splitter in nature and varied from tips to off-width climbing that require more jamming than the easily climbed face features gracing many of the City's classic crack lines.

Some people may ask the question, "Why would you want to waste your time at Connor Columns when you have world class climbing at the City of Rocks only 20 minutes away?"

The answer to that is a simple one... i like climbing. Although not the world class stone and adventure offered at the City of Rocks, Connor Columns does offer a dozen worthwhile splitter lines stacked right next to each other overlooking Connor Creek Summit and the valley below.

If you fancy yourself a lover of jamming style crack routes, Connor Columns is a worthy half day experience if you're at the City of Rocks.

Over the years, I've asked friends and various locals if they've ever checked out the climbing at Connor Columns. The answer has always been the same... "I've looked at it on my way to the City but have never stopped." Heather, Chad Sr, Nathan Smith and I decided to visit the crag yesterday. I wanted to revisit this over shadowed zone to see if in fact i was right about the climbing it offered. We spent the day jamming classic cracks stacked next to each other as if we were at a developed sport crag, minus the signs of any recent human traffic of course! We walked back to the car after sunset completely exhilarated by the climbing we had enjoyed all day!

Connor Columns from Connor Creek Summit

Heather Lords in front of the Pull Photography lens.

Heather cruising up a classic columnar corner.

That's me jamming a superb strait in splitter!

Sport climbing with cams!

Heather soaking up the sunshine while jammin' the goods! Nathan's static line and his foot are in the top right corner of this image. Oops, my bad!

I gave a good effort at on-sighting the Connor Column test piece. I was flashing until i fell off high on the route! No traffic and the presence of lichen made the feet a real challenge! It was fun climbing with sustained movements protected by #0 and #00 Metolius TCU's! And it even felt better climbing sustained moves when i could plug in #1's!

Winter Update

2010-02-23T13:52:00.002-07:00

I hope you have been following the winter excitement on the ski blog, East Idaho Off-Piste! If not, you can join in the fun at: www.nopiste.blogspot.com

Spring is just around the corner and the ever growing desire to climb rock is taking hold. It won't be long before you start seeing climbing content continue here at the Indulgence.

I hope everyone has had a wonderful winter so far.

Heather the Strong

2009-12-17T16:39:00.003-07:00

As some of you know, Heather took a bit of a tumble yesterday and as a result she got to be my first ever Ski Patrol patient! She likely injured the Meniscus on her left knee when her ski tip dove under the snow and flipped her for a sideways cartwheel. I was above her and watched her knee bend/twist about 30 degree's farther than it was suppose to. YIKES!

After a trip to the hospital and some pain meds, she slept through the night and decided to go to school today. Her knee is doing well this evening and she has been able to use it a bit throughout the day with only minor pain and inflammation. I keep reminding her to ice and elevate it which she does.

We wanted to say thanks for all of the phone calls, emails, and facebook wishes of a speedy recovery. Heather says she'll be skiing again before we know it... funny but i believe her!

Heather being assisted by Jedediah and Dave of the Targhee Ski Patrol

shifting gears

2009-11-22T22:32:00.002-07:00

Heather and I hiking out the steep section of Scotty's after spending a portion of the day skiing laps at Steve Baugh's Bowl, east of Grand Targhee Ski Resort

photo: Rick Williams

Heather exiting the bottom of Scotty's Chute on our way to Steve Baugh's Bowl.

The time has come where I'm shifting gears and adding winter ski content to East Idaho Off-Piste. If you are interested, please follow my ski adventures at www.nopiste.blogspot.com and i will continue to post winter climbing on The Indulgence (this site).

Avalanche awareness night for the Snake River Valley

2009-10-14T11:01:00.004-06:00

Copied from East Idaho Off-Piste
http://www.nopiste.blogspot.com/

Friends of East Idaho Off-Piste will be hosting a free avalanche awareness night on Friday, October 23rd. We will be showing The Fine Line - A 16mm Avalanche Education Film. This is a high energy film that rivals some of the better movies out there with amazing ski, snowboard and snowmobile footage. This is a great film for the seasoned backcountry enthusiast wanting a pre-season mental refresher as well as an important education in basic fundamentals for any aspiring backcountry user.

Here are the details:
When: Friday, October 23rd at 7pm - 9:30pm. Doors open at 6:30pm
Where: Ririe High School Auditorium - 260 1st West, Ririe, ID. 83443 (park and enter the auditorium on the west side of the school)
Cost: FREE
Who: Anyone who travels or wants to travel into the side-country, backcountry, and alpine environment to ride, slide, or climb.
Why: Awareness, unity, meet new friends, and it will just be darn fun!

Some of you might ask, "Why Ririe?" Well that's simple and it's not because it's close to my house! The Ririe High School has been kind enough to let the community gather in their auditorium free of charge for educational purposes! Also, it's somewhat of a central location for folks in the Snake River Valley and those from Teton Valley who will drive over the hill to attend. Just make the drive to Ririe, it will be worth it.

Please spread the word and let's kick off the ski season with safety in mind.

See you there!

(if you are viewing this on Facebook, you may need to visit http://www.nopiste.blogspot/ or http://www.deanlords.blogspot.com/ to view the movie trailer)

The world’s best skiers, snowboarders, snowmobilers, and climbers join the world’s leading avalanche professionals to bring you a new movement in avalanche education. “The Fine Line: A 16mm Avalanche Education Film” is a cinematic journey that unites the cutting edge of winter action sports with youth education about responsible backcountry usage. An opening film is the prime emotional hook and four training films dive into the details of backcountry science. Massive avalanches, epic riding, year long time-lapses, crazy true stories, deep cable cam powder, Alaskan heli to heli, and educational materials made visible. Engaging, educational, and inspiring: This film could save lives.

short basalt in the backyard

2009-10-08T11:01:00.008-06:00

Here's some local traditional climbing. It's all we've got close to home. The mighty Midget Widget...

Ben Eaton hangin' out on Crack-a-lackin' - Midget Widget Wall

Jennilyn Eaton trying to stay warm on Crack-a-lackin' - Midget Widget Wall

Rick Williams jamming the overhanging splitter known as the Widget of OZ

Rick Williams is the Widget of OZ - Midget Widget Wall

Jennilyn Eaton soaking up the Eastern Idaho sunshine on Bitchin' Widget - Midget Widget Wall

Rick Williams immersed in finger locks on Bitchin' Widget

need i say more?

2009-09-23T10:00:00.001-06:00

new sector at Midget Widget

2009-09-17T10:20:00.002-06:00

I've been climbing a few days a week at Midget Widget the last few weeks. Abe Dickerson and I spent a morning out climbing some of the routes i established last fall. To my surprise they were just as fun as last year. Although the routes are short, they offer some pretty fun climbing. Basically, if you take the crux section of any trad route and place it on the rimrock basalt of Meadow Creek, you will have any one of the climbs at Midget Widget! Bouldering with cams is what i like to say!

It is short, but it definitely teaches you to protect the route. Some of the lines would easily protect with two cams, but hitting the ground is very likely due to the short nature of the some of the routes, so i find myself protecting the routes against ground falls more than anything. If you do venture out to Midget Widget, please bear in mind that it is basalt and somewhat brittle, so the likely hood of breaking a hand or foot hold is very possible. And depending on where you are on the route, you could easily hit the ground. Be safe please.

Jennilyn Eaton and I have been developing a new sector southeast of the main zone. Currently we have three new routes with a possibility of several more all on the same wall. These routes are a bit taller, maybe 5o to 55 feet and require a bit more boldness than the splitters from last year. Expect some committing face climbing and marginal gear.

Also of note, we established a nice corner crack on the north facing wall just to the south of the "Widget of Oz" . I will put together some more route info once we get the remaining lines done at the new sector. In the meantime here are a couple of photos.

Jennilyn Eaton on Crack-a-lackin'
Crack-a-lackin'

New routing on Basalt in eastern Idaho is always exciting!

learning from mother nature

2009-09-14T08:37:00.006-06:00

Getting burned isn't the worst thing that can happen. Rising from the ashes of tragedy are countless opportunities to show the world your true colors.
(photo of an old burn area in the Yellowstone backcountry 9/13/09)

Photo of the day

2009-08-30T18:59:00.004-06:00

My beautiful wife at the City of Rocks

the braveheart

2009-08-29T19:55:00.006-06:00

My friend Jennilyn is afraid of crack climbing. The one time she tried it, she knew that her feet and/or hands would get stuck in the crack and break right off when she fell. Needless to say her first time crack climbing last year basically sealed the deal that this style of climbing was not for her - citing the fact that if she didn't break her hands or ankles off in the cracks, then for sure if she were to lead all of her gear would just fall out; leaving only the ground to catch her fall!

I had a different theory than hers. If you understand the movement of crack climbing and how to jam your hands and feet, then you'll progress upward in control, and as a result of being in control, you'll have a clear head to place solid, confidence boosting gear. The idea is - getting to the top of the route is a direct result of skill rather than happenstance or luck. Do it right or don't do it at all; climbing is dangerous...

We planned a trip to the City of Rocks this week where my idea was to get Jennilyn prepped to lead an easy traditional route before we left on Saturday. So, for several days we roamed the Granite formations at the City of Rocks chasing shade and climbing a variety of cracks.

Jennilyn is not a fan of lead climbing. I'm talking about sport routes! She's pretty gun shy and almost always prefers to top-rope a climb. As a result i can only think of one 5.11a that she has red pointed and just a handful of easy routes under 5.10 that she has lead. So for her the thought of lead climbing even one route that requires placing gear is about a realistic as her going to the moon.

I say if you wanna go to the moon, then GO TO THE MOON!

Well, my theory worked. And the result was her first ever gear lead. Now some of you have climbed at the City of Rocks and may be thinking that she chose to climb Wheat Thin 5.7, or Carols Crack 5.6, or any number of classic beginner routes. Well, i'm hear to tell you that my theory worked so well, Jennilyn lead in perfect style (calm, in control, deliberate, and placing correct gear) on the obscure Inner City route, Heartbreaker 5.10d! Only taking one fall at the crux; then sending the rest of the route with ease!

I shot some photos of the little braveheart leading her first ever gear route. Enjoy!

A very excited Jennilyn near the top of Heartbreaker 5.10d - City of Rocks Idaho

from the horses mouth

2009-08-25T13:15:00.005-06:00

I'm taking a few weeks to recharge my personal batteries. This is not to be confused with the other various local east Idaho rumors floating around that i have quit climbing!
.
Check back. I'll be in full swing when the temps cool down.

one of many

2009-08-16T12:25:00.001-06:00

Reason 1,000,000,001 why i love living in Eastern Idaho. This photo is of the western slopes of the Tetons today, August 16th - 2009!

That snow wasn't there yesterday!

dedication equals achievment

2009-08-14T11:25:00.007-06:00

I QUIT - okay, not really!

I've recently been blamed for making at least one person quit climbing because i suggested that to be a good climber requires time and dedication! Crazy... i know. And while i feel bad that my "suppose to be a pep-talk" resulted in a negative outcome, i still stand by my ideals. If you want to climb strong on the rocks and boulders; you have to dedicate the time. If you want to climb smart in the mountains and not run around succeeding on luck; you need to dedicate the time.

So i'll get to the point of this. It's no surprise that when i read a link from Will Gadd's blog to a friend of his, i couldn't help but think of the recent situation and several of the great people i get to go climbing with around here. I've said this stuff for years. Here is someone else saying it.

Basically, I'M CALLING YOU OUT (in a very nice way of course)! There are a handful of people who could benefit from reading this and those guys and gals know who they are! It all boils down to trying really hard and dedicating the time to find out what you are capable of climbing if personal achievements are your goal.

Recreationalists need not apply. But when you are ready to get serious about your personal performance and want to find out what you are capable of climbing - this http://blog.thaczuk.com/?p=124 is a good place to start!

more nonsense

2009-08-13T11:14:00.004-06:00

A few of us spent the afternoon at Weeping Cave yesterday. We went late in the afternoon in hopes of finding reasonable climbing temps. It wasn't promising when my car said it was 91 degrees at the trail head! If it were just the heat, likely we could deal with it, but the crag is surrounded by thick vegetation which keeps the moisture and raises the humidity... a whole lot!

Despite the less than ideal climbing conditions, Chad Sr. and I made some good progress on Hoss, Choss, and Chaos. I was able to get most of the way through the crux, falling off at the final stopper move just before the exiting jugs. If you get on this route, please be aware that holds keep breaking off right at the second clip and you will deck if you don't have it clipped. Young Sambo escaped hitting the deck when the hold broke at the same time the rope dropped through the gate of the carabiner.

The picture is of Chad Sr. on Sasquatch.

Last week, i spent a couple of days in the Tetons with several close friends. The weather made life interesting with marble sized hail driven by 40 mph winds. This made for icy conditions up high. Not to mention the temps were in the mid 20's! And it's the middle of August! Despite the weather and the lack of good climbing, and dealing with too many people on the mountain - all trying to kill the people in our group with their carelessness while walking through loose rock above us, i truly had a good time.

It's been hard to motivate for hard climbing the last few weeks. I'm not sure if it's the summer heat, or if I'm stuck in a rut and need to take a break for a few weeks. Anybody wanna teach me how to surf?

life in east idaho

2009-08-02T12:43:00.003-06:00

Downtown Ririe, Idaho. Heather and I live about 3 miles north of Ririe. This scene happens on a weekly basis. No Stergis bound bikers; it's just the routine stop on Saturday! I've seen nearly a hundred bikes lined up on Main St. from time to time. Lot's of leather, tattoo's and beards.

Here are a couple of images of Heather on Matt's new Weeping Cave route, "Hoss, Moss, and Chaos". A cool traversing pumping line on jugs to difficult crux at the very end. On Heather's first go, the clipping hold at the second bolt broke off, sending her crashing into the rocks and boulders at the base of the route. Un-injured, she summoned the courage to get on it again!

Matt also drilled another route right of Sasquatch but we did not have time to get check it out. I spent some more time working on the Basilisk and was able to climb to the upper crux without falling off! The bulge at the top will definitely require some specific crimp strength training in order for me to pull it off, but it's such a good line, i really want to put the time into it. I still need to move a few bolts for it to be complete. It's gonna be so good!

ELI WATKINS YOU STILL NEED TO GIVE ME YOUR PHONE NUMBER AND EMAIL ADDRESS!! deanlords@gmail.com

updates and requests

2009-07-29T10:17:00.008-06:00

It's been a couple of crazy weeks with the Mammut bouldering Comp and Outdoor Retailer in Salt Lake City. Set up and take down for both events adds many days to the actual events for me. I don't mind so much, but it does get crazy from time to time, leaving me numb and spaced out for a few days after the event. All went well though. The comp was a lot of fun, and O.R. was pretty much the same but i had a lot more to do for some reason. I'm glad it's over and look forward to the whole thing again next year.

Heather went to Boise for a school conference this week and I connected with Heather H. for a trip to the City of Rocks. We had hopes of being gone for the week, but i had some end of the month work obligations that required immediate attention. I'll get things done today and hope to get back out for the rest of the week. Sorry to Heather for the false start at what would have been a fun week of climbing.

We did get some climbing in though. On our way down we stopped at Massacre Rocks and resurrected some old boulder problems east of the interstate i played around on in the early 90's. They were a lot of fun and even more enjoyable with a crash pad! Didn't have those in the early 90's! At the City we made it a point to climb routes that we have not done. Usually this is my goal anyway, but always seem to end up taking friends up the "classics" at some point in the trip. The weather was pleasant for the middle of summer and we ticked off more routes in my guide book. I can't believe i hadn't climbed Fred Rassumsen on the Upper Breadloaf before. That route might be my favorite 5.8 splitter at the City now. Also of note - i totally botched the lower section of Stan's Roof and fell off before getting to the good crack climbing! Don't tunnel vision in the corner, use the outside edge to your right!

ELI WATKINS PLEASE CALL ME AGAIN. Your message was broken up and i do not have your phone number.

Last but not least - thanks for the many kind emails about Alpinist Issue 27. It was a great experience and very humbling to have them approach me for an article. Truly an experience i will cherish all of my life. Thanks Katie Ives and Michael Kennedy for your intrigue in Idaho's mixed alpine cragging.

more Weeping Cave action

2009-07-16T10:53:00.003-06:00

A large crew of us headed out to the Weeping Cave yesterday afternoon. Large for us would be seven close friends! At times it was pretty funny with three climbers fighting for space at one time on the wall! It was like a scene from that old TV show American Gladiator!

Everyone enjoyed the routes. Matt pushed his one hang status on Quart of Blood Technique higher up the route. Tom worked on his impossible looking (to me anyway, but the power of youth is stronger than i am) route Uber Unagi, and I worked out some sequences on Matt's open project, The Basilisk. Heather and Nat M. started to work on Qt. late in the evening, both topping out on the route with a lot of hard work to get there. Rick and Scott burned up the moderates before time constraints sent them back to Idaho Falls. All in all, a very inspiring day of rock climbing and projecting.

The Basilisk is hard - as in we need Mike McClure and his crimp strength on overhanging bulges without feet to come over and check this thing out. It may be our area's first attainable .13+/.14-. Now that is just a suggestion and said in complete reservation in tossing arbitrary numbers out on the internet. Regardless, the Basilisk, like Qt. of Blood Technique is very inspiring and i look forward to getting bouted on it for many months to come!

I leave in a few days for the Outdoor Retailer show in Salt Lake City and the Mammut Bouldering Championships. I look forward to seeing a lot of you guys there and can't wait to get caught up on things happenig in your lives.

and the winner is...

2009-07-10T10:15:00.004-06:00

Quart of Blood Technique.

Last year i scoped out a few sectors of limestone in Palisades Creek and came back with some worthwhile findings. I wanted to start establishing routes this spring but the opportunity for a trip to Croatia and the super poor spring-time weather kept me from doing so. I passed on some photos and locations to Matt TeNgiao to check out. He too was excited about the potential. Knowing i was going to be gone most of the spring and being the gentleman he is, Matt asked if i had any reservations about him starting the equipping process. (one of the many great things about most of our local climbers... they have a lot of respect for each other and the hard work that goes into sifting through miles and miles of choss to keep the local scene going! I love where i live and the people i get to climb with.)

In my absence Matt has equipped a handful of quality routes for all abilities, including a few projects to work on. Typically i equip routes out of the need for new terrain to climb or the inspiration of a particular feature or peak. But with the hard work Matt put in the last few months, i have some new routes to work on and no real need to equip new routes other than one or two inspiring features at the new Palisades Creek wall called the Weeping Cave. And maybe a really cool looking sector near the Weeping Cave. And this one area in the Lemhi Range. And maybe, well, you get the point!

Matt took Heather and I out to the Weeping Cave yesterday to show us his work. I had a blast and so did Heather. We climbed some really fun .10's and .11's on featured but technical and challenging limestone. One of Matt projects he has dubbed "The Quart of Blood Technique" is AMAZING! I do not hesitate to say it is by far the best new route of the year and may easily become my favorite route in Eastern Idaho. An impossible looking line with hidden holds that are really good. The line is sustained, powerful, and pumpy as hell. Lots of knee drops, lock-off's, and techy feet. CLASSIC in every way. Nice work TeNgiao!

I am excited to go back and redpoint the route after Matt get's the first ascent; which won't be long as he had it down to one hang on his last attempt of the day yesterday. At any rate, here are a few photos that Matt took of Heather and I along with a couple of images i took of Matt with his camera.

For more info on the Weeping Cave, check out http://www.seiclimbing.com/

that's me on Sasquatch 5.10d

Heather getting techy on the deceptive 9 Cow Wife 5.11b

Matt getting ready to gaston on the Quart of Blood Technique

Another shot of Matt

I love Idaho

2009-07-04T18:54:00.002-06:00

I love Idaho. I love America. I love the piece and quiet of country living. Cool air at night. Breeze blowing through the trees... I could go on and on.

We are home and happy to be here.

The above vid is sooo perfect! Thanks for sending the link to me Steve! It it a perfect display of humor in every aspect. I laughed and laughed. Heather and I must have watched this 10 times in a row!

My brain is a bit fried for any worthwhile blog content. Hopefully i'll be recovered in a day or two...

Some photos of Rome and stuff

2009-06-29T05:26:00.004-06:00

Hey, why didn't anyone tell me Michael Jackson died?? Sad day.

Ummm....

2009-06-29T02:03:00.002-06:00

Stuck in Ancona, Italy. Our plane to Frankfurt leaves tomorrow from Split, Croatia. Hope we can get out of this place before we miss our flight.

On another note, H and I visited the Pope's home along with some other amazing historical places the last few days. Once i get a few minutes to upload some photos, i'll do so. As of right now we are on the run. The last 36 hrs have been the classic hurry up and wait game as we are trying to make our way back across Italy and then across the Adriatic Sea to Split. Cross your fingers we will make it there by Tuesday before 2pm!

We are both healthy and for the most part happy. Other than a rough first part of the night when we got bad beta from the bus driver who dropped us off at the place were we needed to purchase ferry tickets, but neglected to tell us no ferry's leave from the port on Sundays... and he was the last bus of the day. So we had a nice 8km walk back to town only to find a hotel for 80 Euro's a night (that's very expensive).

Always and adventure.

Rome, Italy

2009-06-26T13:51:00.002-06:00

We took the overnight boat to Ancona, Italy last night. That was really fun, but i dont think i could live on a boat for more than a few days! Next was the train from Ancona to Rome. This took us from east to west across Italy, through mountains, vineyards, and villages. Once in Rome, we wondered around downtown for a few hours, eating pizza and pasta (yes it is the best pizza in the world) and now we are hanging out in a nice hotel a few blocks north and east of the Colluseeum (sp??).

That is about it. Not much to report! Sorry no photos.

a star is born

2009-06-25T03:12:00.004-06:00

Heather pretty much had one of the best ever climbing days! It has been really fun to watch her evlove on this trip; going from her typical reserved self to an all out funny, quick whitted, send or fall off trying kind of gal!

I was not feeling well yesterday and spent most of the time taking photo's and trying not to vomit. I did manage to climb two routes and back off of two routes, one of which was likely 5.9!

Nathan, Cheri, and Christine are headed to Germany. Heather and I are taking a few days to play tourist in Italy. We'll take the overnight ferry to Ancona and then the train to Rome. We should return to Split after the weekend for a few more days of climbing before heading north to Frankfurt, Germany.

Our trip has been increadable. Both Heather and I are super motivated to return home and start working on another limestone Sector i've had on the shelf; this one is located in the Lemhi Range of Idaho. A beautiful north facing long wall of blue/grey limestone! We've climbed enough sharp limestone to realize that you can either complain about it, or just climb it. I hope it stops raining in Idaho by the time we arrive later next week.

We can't wait for Ranch Dressing and Mountain Dew and chips and salsa and hamburgers from The Backyard and climbing with our friends and 4th of July with the family...

when it rains it pours

2009-06-23T02:38:00.004-06:00

where we live and where we are

the town of Omis

Waiting for the rain to let up

it looks like the rain might be letting up. time to get amped up with the Croatian version of Red Bull

climb fast before you get too wet

heather lovin the rain belay

Yesterday, We spent the day in a cute little "mountian" town called Omis. The place had castles, markets, a river, and lots and lots of limestone - mostly undeveloped! We noticed two big sectors of steep swells and caves with tufas and pockets that had not been developed...at all. The routes we did climb were fun and the scenery was almost impossible to beat! Dispite the rain, we were able to climb many pitches and i finished off the day with a very enjoyable solo and down climb before riding the bus back to Split. Heather had a very strong climbing day yesterday and it was fun to see her find her groove.

More poor weather today, but likely we'll get some climbing in today and tomorrow before another storm hits later this week. Heather and I may take the ferry to Italy on Thursday or Friday when Nathan, Cheri, and Christine head north to Germany.

Only one week left...

Here's some good old American music!! I dig the Kazoo mounted to the top of his guitar!

hey... this isn't the western united states.

2009-06-21T07:11:00.004-06:00

Okay, who wished rain on us? I know you guys are pretty much fighting trench foot now due to weeks of rain, but you don't have to get jealous of our weather here anymore...

We got rained out from one of the better sectors we've climbed at so far. Amazing tufa lines offering power endurance style entertainment. At least the temps were cool enough to feel like the .13a/b i sampled was attainable with just a few attempts. The upper tufa's were running with water, so hopefully we'll go back and i'll get another attempt at sending it.

The image below is of a local climber working on the same route before the rain started.

We climbed at the Marjan sector this morning and now we will let our skin heal and our muscles rest for the rest of the day. It's cloudy and overcast. I hope we don't miss the cooler temps, but i need a half day recovery. Hopefully we can return to Klis in a day or two and have dry tufas and pockets.

Happy Father's day dad and dad-in-law! We are missing everyone very much. See you in just under two weeks.

spiders, jumping snakes, heat, tender finger tips, and the Croatian sample platter

2009-06-20T04:15:00.002-06:00

Big Spider

wanna-be spiderman

Keep on Rockin in the Free World 8a+

Heather sending a fun 6b

another shot of the 6b

We are back in Split for a few days. A lot of really amazing and scary things have happened the last few days. Our taxi ride to get us to the ferry on time (when leaving Hvar) was the thing movie chase scenes are inspired by! Although we were not being chased by anyone or anything, but our taxi driver was late in picking us up. A single lane dirt road above big cliffs and steep hill sides combined with maximum speeds made for a very exciting experience! The ferry left at 2pm. We arrived at 1:59!

We are staying at the same place in Split and the owners of the flat we are renting is driving us around to different climbing sectors! The people here are so nice and we have felt safe the entire time here. He even took us to his house last night to meet his family!

I'm on the Croatian climbing sample platter program. It has been difficult to send harder routes for various reasons, fitness, heat, humidity, and only climbing one or two days at each sector. So projecting a route has been unproductive to say the least. However, i am enjoying the sample style approach to our stay here. I may not come home with a single difficult redpoint, but i'm excited to simply try some of the routes and move on to the next. Bascially i'm chalking up the reasons to come back during a more realistic 8a time of the year.

That's all for now. Time to go climbing...

the village and the climbing

2009-06-17T15:35:00.005-06:00

Here are a few images of the village we are staying in on the Island of Hvar.

The Pier

The Market and the Church

Looking down on the village from Miro's project cave

I finally got to climb a couple of steep routes today. It was overcast with some wind which kept the temps and humidity down just a little! This allowed for climbing on small crimps and long routes with less sweat soaked clothes and climbing shoes!

The local route developer, Miroslav, took us to his project routes in a cave high above the the village vineyard. We were accompanied by two of Milo's friends from Switzerland; one of which was very strong. I got to sample the easy route in the cave with might be as easy as 8b (5.13d). I did pretty well on it, reaching a distance out the roof before falling off and having to work one crux section before reaching the top and taking the "big" air from the anchors to minimize the rope drag from pulling over the lip and continuing up the headwall to the anchors! It was pretty exciting! The last image is of the project route he let us sample. It was fun to try and communicate with my Swiss project partner about sequences and beta. Basically i just grabbed something and if he cheered, i pulled!

Amazing limestone, eh??

from the edge of the deep green sea

2009-06-15T14:25:00.003-06:00

WHAT A DAY!

Exausted. Sun up to sun down. Climbing. Falling. Splash down! SWIM. Repeat. A side of heaven not to be missed. Cliffbase - Hvar, Croatia.

Shrimp and Squid for dinner. Heavy eye lids. Sore finger tips. Salt water up my nose. I'm sure i'll wake up in this dream again tomorrow...

Moving On

2009-06-14T15:27:00.004-06:00

We travled by ferry to the Island of Hvar; then by small fishing boat along the southern coast to an area called Cliffbase. Tomorrow we will rock climb and explore some deep water soloing on the cliffs in the above image. But for now, we must sleep...

some random photos

2009-06-13T04:05:00.004-06:00

We ventured on to some harder routes yesterday and quickly found it to be very humid for pulling on small limestone crimps. I came very close to flashing a super techy 7c+ (.13a) but fell off on the two smallest crimps. No chalk on the tips and sweat pouring out of my body. Fun route though. Appearantly this route was the very first route equipped for any European climbing competition! Fun to get on it and do pretty well.

The Disco was off the hook last night. We grooved until 3:30 in the morning. Pretty sweet!

Nathan and Cheri arrive today and we will head to Hvar tomorrow where we will be able to focus on climbing a bit more than we are able to do here in Split.

Climbing, Euro Beaches, and Castles

2009-06-12T03:09:00.004-06:00

Heather and Christine walk the "streets" of Split, Croatia

The Bird Man and his music box

The Beach and one of the climbing Sectors located above the beach
Heather climbing a very cool 5.11 next to an old building built into the cliff

Heather and I slowing down time!

We did pretty well our first full day in Croatia. The three of us ate good food, walked all over the place, hung out at the beach, and climbed some easy rocks! The jet lag is quickly fading and we are ready to spend more time at the beach and climb more rocks! The beaches are EURO beaches for sure! I had to find the best angle for the above image to keep it viewable for all ages! The water is warm and very clear. I'm excited for our stay on some of the islands and the snorkling we will get to do inbetween climbing sessions.

Today or tomorrow we will head to the island of Hvar and spend several days climbing there before moving on to other area's.

Heather, Christine, and i are staying in a small apartment in the heart of the Castle area of Split. A one minute walk and we are in the hustle and bustle of shops and markets. The entire area is an old castle and network of houses from the middle ages. Lots of history and culture. The people are very nice and happy to deal with our lack of Croatian understanding. Most everyone speaks English, or German, or Italian; so we are able to get by easily.

The temps are pretty warm durning the day and not great for rock climbing. The late afternoon and evening is perfect though! The limestone is a lot different than what we experienced in Greece, but is still really fun to climb. I am excited for more routes and other areas too.

That's all for now... ohhh other than i'm gonna get my groove on at the Euro Disco tonight....look out Split!!

We have arrived!

2009-06-11T03:52:00.003-06:00

I finally got some sleep after being awake for almost 30 hrs. Heather and I met up with Christine in Frankfurt and the three of us traveled the remaining distance to Croatia together. My mind is pretty foggy, so i'll write something worthwhile in a day or two.

We are here and we are safe. This place is AMAZING!

See you in July

2009-06-09T06:30:00.002-06:00

H and I are in the Idaho Falls Airport awaiting our first of many flights to Croatia. I hope there will be occasional Internet access to update the blog. In the meantime, enjoy whatever it is you are doing!

Skiing the North Face of Trail Peak

2009-06-03T16:19:00.004-06:00

the north face of Trail Peak (10,553ft) in the Lemhi Range, Idaho

Heather surfin' the corn snow

Heather lining up for the crux

let 'er rip!

Heather and I trained hard today for our rock climbing trip to Croatia next week!! I say, why not go skiing and work on our Idaho tan!

Crutches...who needs 'em?

2009-05-28T15:47:00.008-06:00

Heather on Riff Raff 5.12c/d - Crank Cave, ID.

that's not a heel-hook with her right foot, but rather a horizontal toe wedge in a crack - can you say "holy core strength batman"??

Heather and I have been having a lot of fun trying to get into shape for our trip to Croatia next month. We should be climbing slabs and vertical face routes as there seems to be a lot of that in Croatia, but we can't help but gravitate toward things that are fun!

We've revived locals cave night at Crank Cave the last few weeks and even had some uber strong friends from SLC sample the place and help us reel in a consesious on the grades. Thanks dudes! There has been a lot of really great energy down there with much sending going on. I've been working hard at kicking out the crutches of fear and negative reinforcement from underneath my friends. It seems to be working. Jennilyn redpointed Free Fallin (5.11a) on her third attempt. Her previous top end redpoint was 5.9! After recovering from being sick and the last week of school, Heather is lapping with ease on The Bride of Crankenstein (5.12a) and has made significant progress on Riff Raff (5.12c/d). She may even send it before we leave on the 9th! That would be super cool!

Other great accomplishments at the cave include Chad Sr. redpointing Riff Raff last night. Nat topped out on Crankenstein with only some minor hanging at the crux. I've added another bolt to the Wave of Mutilation and am one step closer and having the line fully equipped and sent. I just need to decide if i want an independent line or if it will link into the Karma Police anchors.

It's been a lot of fun exposing fears and helping friends realize that they control in a direction opposite of success. I've learned a lot about my own fears too. Hopefully we will all continue to learn from them and make progress as the summer continues.

Local Flavor

2009-05-21T09:04:00.002-06:00

Heather on her route - The Bride of Crankenstein

Daddy long legs, Rick Williams getting committed at the crux on The Bride of Crankenstein

Jennylin Eaton on Powder Finger

I finally made it out to Crank Cave yesterday afternoon. Heather, Rick, Chad Sr., and Jennylin all climbed till we were pumped and our hands raw from the sharp rock. It was great to be back out there. I was surprised at how difficult the routes felt to me, which i am happy about!

The more traveling i do, the more i realize that our local choss is pretty darn good for what it is. I'm psyched to have all of the variety so close to home. It's may not be world class, but it is pretty cool!

New River Gorge - W. Virginia

2009-05-17T16:34:00.001-06:00

Bouldering with Moses (yes, that is his real name) from Metolius while at the New River Gorge in West Virginia.

fitness program

2009-05-10T17:07:00.003-06:00

It is official, Heather and I have obtained plane tickets to Croatia! We will spend most of June rock climbing at various sectors throughout the country of Croatia. Our crew consists of Christine Balaz, Will Mayo, Nathan and Sheri Smith, and us! We are excited and working hard to get some fitness so we can show up prepared to climb a lot!

So as a result i've created the fitness program of mass destruction! What does that mean... well, i don't really know, other than to climb as much as we can before we go. Between gym sessions and a few good days of weather, i've climbed six out of seven days this week. Heather climbed four out of the last seven days.

Heather and I headed over to Shoshone Cave yesterday and met up with Nathan and Sheri. We spent most of the time at the little cave which was a good thing for me as i was performing like i'd been climbing hard the previous five days, but regardless of falling off of things, i was there for fitness... good excuses, eh??
This was Heather's first time at the Little Cave and she did well. She and Nathan were able to redpoint one of the routes there as well as flash the warm-up which isn't that easy in my opinion. We buzzed over to the big cave and decided to check out the bouldering at the Channel. Heather and I had not been there before, and Nathan had, but did not get to climb.

Typical with Idaho climbing, the Channel is unique in so many ways. First, you walk through the sagebrush where there is no visible cliffs for miles in every direction.

Once down in the dry Channel bed, the walls on both sides are worn smooth by the decades of moving water; creating bizarre scoops, pods, and all manner of weird sculptures.

The climbing is just as unique as the shapes of the stone. We did a few cool problems before the mosquito's came out in force and we retreated to the sagebrush landscape above.

It was a great day of fitness with Nathan and Sheri. On our way home, Heather and I stopped at Pickles Place in Arco feasted on Bacon Cheeseburgers! Our body's were thrashed and our appetites craved meat, which we indulged in! We finally arrived home just after midnight, tired and fulfilled from a good day of sport climbing and bouldering.

I looks like the weather is taking a turn for the worse this coming week. I will also be leaving for West Virginia again in a few days. I hope i can keep up with the fitness program this week!

getting outside with kids - YES you can!

2009-05-06T12:55:00.001-06:00

A good friend of mine passed this on to me a while ago and i'm just now getting it posted on the blog. Heather and i don't have kids yet, but we spend a lot of time with friends who do. Today, The Dirtbag Diaries launches a new companion site – The Outdoor Parent. Our goal: provide stoke. Stoke to get you out of bed before dawn for a long run through the woods or a solid surf session at a favorite break. Stoke to rally the kids out for a weekend of camping beneath dark, starry skies or just around the corner to the edges of your local park. We celebrate skinned knees, hand-me-down jeans and big smiles. We believe in unchecked imagination and learning by doing. Already, we’ve got some posts up and running. Please have a look around. Leave a comment and let us know what you think. The Outdoor Parent is looking for contributors so if you’re interested or know someone who might be, please drop us a line.
Here is what you can expect from us.
* Perspective from climbers, skiers, surfers and modern explorers who have embarked on the ultimate adventure — parenthood.
* Interviews with athletes who prove that chasing the dream and instilling a love of the natural world in kids are one and the same.
* Creative tips for turning the natural world into an outdoor classroom.
* Thoughtful discussion on topics that concern you — balancing personal goals with raising a family, risk, the environment.
Please visit www.theoutdoorparent.com. For more information, contact Fitz Cahall at mhtml:%7B20A03085-F8B1-4422-BEFC-792957F17BF7%7Dmid://00001118/!x-usc:mailto:fitz@theoutdoorparent.com or by calling 206-890-9533

2009-05-03T17:14:00.004-06:00

It's been a very busy week where technology has not been my friend. Changing my ISP and cell phone provider, upgrading to a Blackberry so i can stay on top of work obligations while traveling, and luckily some climbing! I've lost texts and voicemails, missed emails, and basically had a very difficult week trying to catch up from being on the road the last ten days. Finally getting caught up though.

My slide show went well in Boise. A great turn out for a great event. I am a big supporter in climbing community based organizations that focus on crag stewardship, access, and impact needs within their region. The Boise Climbers Alliance is just that. It was an honor to speak on behalf of that group to a large audience of climbers who recreate at many of the local crags around Boise. I hope people enjoyed the presentation and found some inspiration to explore their backyard and be a positive contributor to the continual growth of climbing here in Idaho.

We had breakfast the next morning with Dusty and some of the BCA crew before leaving town. Heather and I really enjoyed the hospitality and kindness from this organization and look forward to seeing them out and about. After breakfast, we headed for the sport routes at the lava caves north of Shoshone, Idaho to find shelter from the rain. Things were a bit drippy but we found some routes to climb and got some fitness in. I called Dave Bingham on our way to the cave and he jumped in the car and rallied down for a cave session with us. We had fun and it's always a great time hanging out with Dave.

This week is busy with making travel arrangements back to W. Virginia and our upcoming trip to Croatia as well as finishing up some final editing needs for the Alpinist article on alpine cragging here in Idaho. The weather does not look promising so likely Heather and I will spend some much needed time at the gym. Maybe we'll see some of you there...

just because

2009-04-27T10:46:00.004-06:00

This is what happens at 30,ooo feet over Nebraska with airline radio after I have some Coke (cola!) and Christine has a bottle of wine. Yes, we are dorks and i'm sure you had to be there. 10 days of really bad British accents, none stop climbing action, and lots of "donking" (cameo of the Donk at the end of the clip) may have contributed to our madness. I do feel sorry for the people who sat near us on the flight from Ohio to Utah.

country roads

2009-04-26T10:00:00.003-06:00

Seneca Rocks is pretty cool. It offers a great low key scene, tight knit community, and some amazing scenery. The climbing is pretty cool too. Our group dynamics this trip made the experience of Seneca Rocks more memerable than the climbing itself. This is the first time Will Mayo and I had a chance to tie in and climb together. He and I see each other at different events throughout the year, but we've never just gone climbing together. He's inspiring and motivational for sure! Our small crew also included Chris Goplerud from Colorado. Chris is a long time climber, now in his 50's. He has seen the evelotion of climbing for many decades and shared stories of famous climbers and the traditions of yester year with us thoughout the week. He and i also had a chance to climb several routes together. He's strong willed as well as physically and climbs with grace and confidence. Chris climbed in Seneca back in the early 70's and this was his first time back since 1978. I enjoyed following him around as he remenissed of experiences from all those years ago.

We also got to know some of the locals and a few of the area guides. Rumors of out of towners sending many of the difficult routes was fueled by our screams of desperation ringing through the trees as we fought with the routes and encouraged each other. One local guide said that "those screams" were all his clients could talk about all day and they too became fueled with motivation to try hard.
We climbed some pretty amazing routes. My favorite route was the 5.4 notch to south summit. Nathan and I first down climbed this fin after photographing a route on the Green Wall. We were both so inspired by it that we went up the next day and I cilmbed it again and then down climbed it. I also sampled the local project that was equipped two decades ago and found it to be steep and hard! We climbed a beautiful powerful and very overhung 5.11 thin crack and i even flashed a steep and pumpy 5.11cX route then finished up with another 5.12a flash late in the day. I'm pretty excited about this as i'm now just starting to feel like i have gained some fitness from a long climbing dry spell during the winter.

We joked around, poked fun at each other and continued to have a great time while at Seneca. I am pretty sure most of the locals thought we were a bit over the top with our silly British accents and primal screaming, but it wouldn't be us without it! Likely our craziness was fueled by our need for energy drinks and the funny buzz you get from them!

I'll be back in Idaho tomorrow and looking forward to spending time with family and friends.

Christine Balaz

the local slang

me and Chris at the base of the Green Wall

for my mother

2009-04-24T11:17:00.002-06:00

Hi Mom!